Brian Croser has been in the Australian wine industry for over 50 years. He helped build it. Now he’s watching it struggle — and he’s got a lot to say about why.
This is a big conversation.
Brian sits down with us to talk about what’s actually going wrong, what the industry refuses to confront, and where the opportunity is if people are willing to look at it honestly.
The core argument: Australian wine is world-class. The top echelon from $20 a bottle up can compete with any country on earth. But we’re nowhere near achieving our share of global premium wine markets — and the reasons are as much about politics and emotion as they are about economics.
We get into:
→ The false wars — inland vs cool climate, grape grower vs winemaker — and why they’ve been holding the industry back for 50 years
→ Why Australian vineyards are “sticky” — we tolerate losses far longer than California or anywhere else, and what that means for oversupply
→ Four years of inventory sitting in cellars across the country
→ Why government intervention is the kiss of death and market forces have to drive the correction
→ The Italian parallel — what happened after their postwar oversupply crisis, the introduction of the DOC system in 1963, and what Australia can and can’t learn from it
→ China’s shift from mimicking Bordeaux to doubling down on Marselan and Chinese identity — and why that matters for us
→ The Southeast Asian opportunity — $8 a litre in Asia vs $3 in traditional markets, a growing middle class, and the natural fit between Australian wine styles and Asian cuisine
→ Why Australian wine’s best distribution channel might not be Australian restaurants but Southeast Asian ones
→ The case for a value-based levy instead of a volume-based one — and why the current system lets the spending power of industry funding depreciate year after year
→ What the AWRI has achieved globally — smoke taint, Brettanomyces, screw cap adoption — and why we need to refocus R&D on premium grape quality rather than capacity building
→ The immigration argument nobody in wine is making — 51.5% of Australians are either foreign born or have a foreign-born parent, and what that means for the food and wine culture we’re building
→ Why a smaller, more premium, more focused industry is where we’re headed — and why that might be a good thing
Brian also talks about the speech he’s about to give at the very last University of Adelaide graduation ceremony — 150 years from the university’s first lectures.
This conversation is essential viewing for anyone who works in, sells, or cares about the future of Australian wine.
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TIMESTAMPS:
00:00 – Introduction
02:06 – Current state of the global wine industry
03:43 – Overcoming emotion
05:03 – Economic forces
07:47 – The role of government
09:21 – Importance of R&D
10:23 – Australia’s unique response
13:21 – The rise of Asian markets
15:48 – Lessons from Italy post-war
18:46 – Opportunities in grape varieties
24:42 – Building Australian wine credibility
27:01 – Impact of immigration and multicultural influences on Australian cuisine & wine
30:23 – Consumer trends
33:36 – The Chinese wine industry’s evolution
36:40 – Strategies for regional branding
41:54 – The importance of targeted research
45:39 – Practical research projects
48:23 – Industry funding, levies, and research transparency
53:28 – A value-based levy model
56:13 – Broader insights: cultural shifts and consumer behavior
58:17 – Closing thoughts: The importance of history, strategy, and collaboration
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16 Comments
Argentina chose Malbec, Chile chose Carménère and China chose Marselan. Zibibbo for Australia?
The recap with timestamp in the video description is brilliant. Great example where AI brings actual value
Love your interviews with Brian
I was wondering if Eucalyptus taint would come up. I have no problem with some Eucalyptus and I have drunk plenty of 389 with Eucalyptus which is nice as a novelty but it wears thin after awhile having said that many wine drinkers didn't seem to notice it. The recent 389 I had was much cleaner and very good. I have had California cab. with obvious mint and for years I wanted to know how a cab. could produce a minty wine, I really liked this flavor profile but now I suspect it might have been a little contamination with mint from the vineyard.
APOLOGIES: This was the first interview with a new setup – and YES, we're aware there are some issues (audio interference + a gimbal gave out part-way through + non-ideal angles + 360 camera footage genuinely sucks), all have been since rectified! When Brian rocks up to be interviewed, we don't sweat the small stuff…
The one thing that most western marketers fail to understand about China is that it's very strongly driven by what is perceived to be the latest fad. Wine is a classic example. I was in the region involved with marketing since the early 90s. Every five years or so a new fad hits the market. If it's not rare dog breeds, it's French designer bags and wine was one of them. I have seen tastings where the average Chinese was choking on Australian red wines they had to drink to be part of the new, new. Buying up chateau in France. Bragging rights on extensive wine collections. The fact is this trend is declining. Consumption is down by over 20% in the last 3 years. China no longer participates in the en-primeur market or barrel auctions. The sad fact is younger Chinese are fairly disinterested and have moved on to alcopops. There will be no big return for any wine exporter chasing the China market. The same is happening globally. Wine no longer appeals, doesn't fit with current lifestyles and there are more interesting less complex alternatives. The sad fact is the wine industry is seeing the end of its glory days and will suffer badly. There is little evidence that anything major is likely to be found by Wine Australia or any group to slow or correct this trend. The high end of the market is fine and always will have support, but the other end is seeing a tsunami of lost consumer interest.
Great episode – best so far in my opinion! Huge admiration for Brian, and as I'm starting my career in wine research it's great to hear his perspectives on the Australian R+D scene. Definitely need more interviews with other researchers on the pod!
I believe Robert Parker is the hero – and the villain – in promoting the big bold tannic monsters of California and Bordeaux. But he also destroyed wine making at the same time as so many regions tried to replicate those wines. Fruity, acidic reds are being chosen by the public nowdays but there is no single voice to make it "stylish". The center of the wine world will move on from California and Bordeaux slowly. The big question is – will the next trend be dominated by one or two regions or will it be spread more evenly? I truly believe local first will dominate during the next phase and that will be great for wine terroir returning. I would love to see more regional styles/varietals available. There are more than 5 varietals out there but you wouldnt know that walking into most wine stores in the US.
Great interview. My first introduction to fine wine was in the early 90. I had recently graduated University in Canada and moved to the States. One of my first vacations as a working stiff was to Scotland. It was there that my cousin introduced me to wine, and specifically Australian. He took me on outings to Oddbins. Petaluma was one of the wines. I liked it so much that I carried home on the plane a few bottles of the 89 vintage. Good memories. Unfortunately it wasn't as easy to find back home in Michigan. Nor were a lot of the other producers.
I found the discussion of Premium wine particularly interesting. I think it's every wineries desire to get into Premium wine, but quite another to succeed. The market is finite and not for the weak. California is a good example of that. For me as a fairly serious wine consumer the sweet spot is the $15-30USD, with an occasional splurge, say for a good Chateauneuf. I actually see some very expensive Australian wines in shops here, but they are rarely what I am buying. I do still buy Aussie Riesling. If I'm shopping it might be for a Cru Beaujolais, Gigondas, or a Spanish red. Quality at an affordable price. I feel there is a gap in Australia between the big boys and the kangaroo wines, at least on the shelves here.
Fabulous interview, important insights, I hope the industry is listening.
It seems we've made a name for ourselves overseas by sending them cheap garbage wines for years. Yellowtail etc. And now Penfolds has jumped the shark and become the TWE cash cow. While they actively buy up our other premium brands and run them into the ground too.
Hopefully the little guys will be able to carve out a premium niche overseas despite all this. I did see some Glaetzer-Dixon Tassie cool climate beauties on a Japan trip last year. Go Nick! Maybe there's hope…
While it won't ever be a Bordeaux, I don't think it's outside of the realm of possibility for the Riverland to become Australia's version of Languedoc ie still cheap but with an increased focus on quality and diversity
It‘s nice to see that you guys also present and test our lovely german riesling 🇩🇪😊 But why always J.J. Prüm Spätlese? It would be a very nice experience for you, if you also try the dry ones. Not only from the Mosel. Go for Pfalz 😉 There you will get the Riesling with the most Power. Go for von Winning (they also offer the best Sauvingion Blancs in Germany), Bürklin-Wolf or Bassermann-Jordan. There are also nice producers for red ones. Friedrich Becker, Knipser or Markus Schneider – That would be an experienc ✌️ Many greetings from germany. Love your videos 👏🏼
I understand Croser's usage of "inland and/or cooler climate regions" in the interview, but I'm curious to know is that how he looks at Australian wine as an overall perspective? Like, is there enough difference between these two regions, aside from just climate, that he views them as their own separate, individual Australian wine industries…?
back in my uni days there was a barossa gewurtz riesling blend Gee Whiz Tram Driver, $15ish from liquorland fantastic to take to byo thai places seems before its time according to your guys convo, but very decent mass produced wines for the asian palate seems like a great fit
Before I got into wine in 2019, when I thought of Australia alcohol I thought beer, not wine. When I thought about Italy, France, Spain, I thought wine. You already know that any farmed fruit that is market driven for success can never achieve dominance due to the requirement for years to pass before enough volume can be delivered. You all need your own Robert Parker flaunting Aussie wines. Great podcast. Thank you.