Cruising down the Sunset Coast with an empty car seat in the back, my husband and I are footloose and fancy free on a late Saturday afternoon.
We’ve agreed we’ll use the child-free time to try somewhere new with a view — but no longer being young and funky we don’t have the first clue as to what’s new and hot.
After 20 fruitless minutes of driving and googling, we’re no closer to dinner. Just when we think all’s lost, my husband spots a full parking lot and a bar that is heaving.
We park up, and head inside Froth Craft Brewery only to find the young and fabulous have beaten us to almost every table.
Heading back to the car we see a restaurant above the packed beer offering.
Camera IconThe view from Tom’s Italian at North Beach. Credit: Daniel Newell
“Didn’t that use to be Soda Sunlounge back in the day?” I ask the other half.
“Which decade was that?” he retorts.
We head upstairs.
And another 30 minutes later, with a steaming bowl of absolutely delicious pasta in front of us and a can’t-be-beaten view of the setting sun on crystal-clear coastal WA waters, we definitely aren’t sorry we took a punt on Tom’s Italian.
Before that magical moment, to whet our appetite, we both decide on a cocktail to sup as we watch the sun start to sink.
He goes for a negroni classico ($22), which is pronounced “very good”, while I choose a bellini ($18), a classic that’s so easy to get wrong . . . and done so right here.
Camera IconThe negroni classico at Tom’s Italian at North Beach. Credit: Daniel Newell
Still fizzy (my usual bugbear), the drink has a proper peach flavour, with an added kick thanks to the inclusion of peach liqueur as well as the traditional prosecco. The menu adds thyme to the listing, but I will admit that didn’t appear in my confection — I didn’t miss it.
When it comes to food, we start with our Italian mainstay, pork and veal meatballs with parmesan ($20), this time adding pizzetta aglio olio with confit garlic and extra-virgin olive oil and parmesan ($14) to share.
The meatballs are beautifully seasoned, with just the right hint of what we both identify as fennel, and the pizza bread soaks the sauce up just as we’d hoped on ordering.
The pizza bread portion is generous and, even if the bread itself is gorgeously airy, our rapidly filling tummies are still glad we opted to share a main.
Camera IconPork and veal meatballs and pizzetta aglio olio at Tom’s Italian in North Beach. Credit: Daniel Newell
For our main, we compromised on pasta over my usually preferred steak, opting for the casarecce ($34) with smoked chicken, guanciale, broccoli, parmesan and double cream.
Despite sounding as heavy as a brick, the sauce is light, the chicken delightfully smoky and the broccoli adds a much-needed hint of green. Again, a generous serve, which makes sharing a great option for a light early dinner.
To match the pasta, my husband dips into Tom’s good, if relatively short, wine list, opting for a glass of Small Wonder Landscape pinot noir from Tasmania at $14. The offer of serving this chilled is a nice touch — much appreciated, though declined.
Camera IconThe casarecce at Tom’s Italian in North Beach. Credit: Daniel Newell
Choosing to share a main is a stroke of genius if for no other reason than it means we have just enough space to try a dessert. Veering away from the true Italian mainstay tiramasu, despite great temptation, we go for the Callebaut chocolate torta with vanilla gelato ($18).
It’s a great choice. Sweet, but not overly so, it is perfectly matched by a very well-made double espresso on the side.
By the time we finish our meal, the restaurant is as hopping as its downstairs neighbour, with every table full.
As a result the noise levels are high, making the venue, in our opinion, more suited to evening family time over a date-night stalwart. But the staff seem to embrace this with most tables set for four or even six or more.
Camera IconThe Callebaut chocolate torta with vanilla gelato at Tom’s Italian in North Beach. Credit: Daniel Newell
And that doesn’t mean intimate dining isn’t possible, we’d just suggest perhaps choosing a later time slot, and asking for a quieter area (which do exist) when booking.
Certainly, our momentarily childless table of two was very satisfied and we’ll definitely be back for another sunset.
The verdict: 16/20
Buzzy Italian with incredible sea views and great food and service to match.
Tom’s Italian
1 North Beach Rd, North Beach, WA 6020
OPEN: Monday to Sunday 12pm to 11pm
CONTACT: (08) 9203 7788, tomsitalian.com.au
BOOKINGS: Yes
