Swordfish at Osteria / Photography by Clay Williams
Time was, Italian food in Philadelphia meant spaghetti and red gravy, broccoli rabe — heavy on the garlic — and spicy sausage. And it was good, really good. (There’s a reason we have a whole neighborhood named after it.) But today? Chefs are taking those classic Italian American flavors and turning them on their heads, combining Philly tradition with old-world regional inspiration and their own dazzling experimentation. From a 40-course tasting adventure to hard-to-find traditional dishes to desserts that deliciously rep the entire Boot, here’s how to navigate the brave new world of Philly’s Italian cuisine.
The Chefs Defining Philly’s New Italian American Cuisine
Chef James Nardone uses inspirations from both his Abruzzese and Calabrese sides of the family to create the menu at Elma.
From family recipes to global influences, this new generation is reshaping Italian cuisine — one unexpected, deeply personal dish at a time. Keep reading …
The 15 Best Italian Restaurants in Philly
The octopus at L’anima
Where the old country meets Philly: The 15 best, most intriguing Italian restaurants to eat at right now. Keep reading …
Marc Vetri: The Godfather of Philly’s New Italian American Cuisine
In the ’90s, red gravy flowed through every Italian restaurant in Philly. And then came Marc Vetri. Keep reading …
Explore Italy Through These 5 Pastries
Behind Fiore’s pastry counter, chef Justine MacNeil is serving up a delicious masterclass in Italian food history. Keep reading …
A Guide to Italy’s Traditional Pasta Shapes and Where to Find Them in Philly
Pasta at Fiorella
These hand-formed pastas hold centuries of history — and some of the city’s best sauces. Keep reading …
Charting the Course: Le Virtù’s La Panarda
La Panarda (Click image to expand.) / Illustration by Alyssa Nassner
Eight hours. 40 dishes. One feast.
Every January, the 900 villagers of the Abruzzese town of Villavallelonga come together for a week of revelry — parades, bonfires, music, and kids dancing around in papier-mâché masks, all done in the name of St. Anthony Abbot, the patron saint of animals. It all leads up to the main event: La Panarda, a 50-course banquet that starts on the last night of the festivities and ends the next morning.
It is a culinary feat — a voyage through the history of Abruzzese cuisine mapped out in the recipes of a tradition that has survived more than 350 years. And in 2024, the feast made its way to Philadelphia thanks to chef Andrew Wood of le virtù. Now, every June, Wood re-creates La Panarda with an eight-hour, 40-course marathon meal highlighting the abbondanza of Abruzzo. Here are a few of the best stops on the journey. (Don’t forget the Tums!):
Fluke crudo with Zafferano dell’Aquila
Abruzzo’s saffron is considered the best in Italy, and the earthiness it adds to the crudo showcases the region’s culinary depth.
Pecorino Brigantaccio
Staying true to its nickname, bandit cheese, Le Virtù owners Francis Cratil-Cretarola and Catherine Lee stash the Abruzzese formaggio in their suitcases when they travel back from Italy.
Ceppe with lobster and peperonata
Pace yourself. This rare bucatini-like pasta from Civitella del Tronto is tossed in a rich lobster sauce with lobster meat, hot peppers, sweet peppers, and tomatoes.
Swordfish skewers
The crowd favorite is marinated in olio santo, an Abruzzese chili oil made with chili, garlic, black pepper, lemon, and rosemary.
Veal carpaccio tonnato
Welcome to the midway point. The paper-thin carpaccio with creamy, briny tonnato is a light intermission.
Frescarieglia
Save room for this crowd favorite. The couscous-like semolina pasta is served al dente with a garlicky sugo di pomodoro sauce and pecorino.
Maccarune i Sant’Antonio
Wood encountered this lamb ragù pasta during La Panarda in Villavallelonga and says he’s been chasing the flavor ever since.
Whole suckling pig
Stuffed with fennel and garlic and rolled tightly like a porchetta, this main course is prepared two days in advance and cooked over an open fire for six to seven hours.
Published as “Philly’s New Italian American” in the November 2026 issue of Philadelphia magazine.
