Ulivo, which means “olive tree” in Italian, debuted in late February in a familiar corner of Columbia Heights. The chic newcomer from first-time restaurant owner Tim Monaghan replaces Capa Tosta with a refined (yet pretty affordable) menu of pastas priced in the low-$20s. Ulivo ushers in its first fall with a fresh lineup of hearty surf-and-turf mains, interesting salads, and must-try desserts from Baltimore native and chef Nick Perkins.
This small but mighty selection of sweets that swing savory (my preference) deserves the spotlight ($15 to $16). The not-too-dense dark chocolate cheesecake is a showstopping slice that’s elegantly topped with orange zest shavings. And I never would have guessed the coconut passionfruit pudding would come out looking the way it does here; the congealed dessert is an optical illusion — shaped in an adorable baby pumpkin mold and placed on a big blanket of graham cracker crumbles like it’s growing on a farm.
The sophisticated renovation of Capa Tosta traded its limoncello wallpaper for a more mature, candle-lit look that extends to its floral-filled bathrooms. Bars on both floors showcase an Italian wine list, amaro program, and various spritzes.
Nestled right in a residential-heavy area, neighborhood regulars are already walking in a few nights a week. One is a friend of mine who lives across the street and stopped by with his newborn to say hi. The brick-framed, homey setup with cozy nooks is good for dates and audible conversations, with an easygoing soundtrack of songs like “What a Feeling” from Flashdance.
After testing the waters for its first few months, brunch is now a weekly Sunday affair starting in October (11 a.m. to 3 p.m.) with an Italian spin on shakshuka and a fennel sausage-packed egg scramble.
