The idea and revival of a format that had been missing
Until the 1950s, pizza was not yet widely available throughout Italy. In Bologna, for example, when Benito Vaccaro arrived from Tramonti in 1963, there were still very few pizzerias, and pizza was described as something almost unknown to the people of Bologna. The great migration of pizza makers from Tramonti to central and northern Italy took place between the 1960s and 1970s, contributing enormously to that golden age—which lasted until the 1990s—during which the restaurant-pizzeria became virtually the epitome of popular Italian dining. Then pizza took a different path; it broke free, and in about thirty years, restaurants featuring Italian-style appetizers and wood-fired ovens became relics (some of which are still of rare beauty today).
Then comes Casa Clementina, which opens in 2026 on the pier of the northern branch of a calm Tiber River that flows into Fiumicino, offering seafood dishes and Roman pizza on its menu. A seafood restaurant and pizzeria whose name should ring a bell, considering that the Clementina pizzeria is right next door. Behind the scenes are Luca Pezzetta and Elisa Bastianelli, who are shaking things up and pulling an ace out of their sleeve: Simone Curti; Simone is a chef whose career has unfolded along the same coastline, gaining experience at Pascucci al Porticciolo*—Gianfranco Pascucci’s one-Michelin-star restaurant in Fiumicino—and later at his own Molo 17, in Ostia, a go-to spot for seafood lovers along Rome’s coast. Curti is the chef at Casa Clementina, and it will be he who, during lunch service, will combine Clementina’s oven with the stoves at Casa Clementina.
The Kitchen
We could go on and on about Luca Pezzetta’s “Sottile Romana”—which earned 95 points from Gambero Rosso’s “Tre Spicchi” guide and a special award for “Best Tasting Menu”—but it’s Curti’s culinary adventures that I want to focus on. With one important caveat, however: at Clementina, you won’t find the full wood-fired oven menu from the main location next door, but only a few standout items such as the “spicchi,” the “padellino,” and the “sfogliati,” followed by the “Cosacca,” the “Margherita,” the “Marinara del futuro,” and the “Fiori e Alici.” Is that not enough? It certainly is.
Especially when, as you keep reading the menu, you find among the appetizers lampara anchovies marinated in lemon and basil, served with frisella and datterino tomatoes. I have a soft spot for anchovies, and so begins my dinner at Casa Clementina, with a series of unannounced surprises. Between a mazzancolla and a grilled king prawn, Simone Curti serves me a charcoal-grilled octopus with smoked potatoes of delectable opulence, preceding it with an elegant warm seafood salad and finishing with small squid in a dark fish stock. I hadn’t had a seafood salad (properly warm) in quite a while—it took me right back to the ’90s. The palate is delighted by the constant shifts in the sauces, which are there to highlight the technical respect for excellent ingredients, almost always served with minimal cooking. I’m left craving the cuttlefish tagliatelle with Maccarese almonds and lemon.
The Gricia di totani I ate right after reminded me of the importance of a mollusk I often underestimate—its bold flavor, character, and texture in a first course I chose on a whim, even though I’d already set my sights on the Risotto alla pescatora as my main goal. I have a deep-seated passion for risottos, and the Pescatora, for me, is one of those recipes that, when expertly prepared, reconnects you with the sea in any season. Rice has the ability to serve as a refined centerpiece even with just a drizzle of olive oil;at Clementina’s, the Pescatora risotto is perfectly creamed, al dente, enveloped in a flavorful sauce, seasoned with generous portions of fresh seafood, and a constant reminder of the sea, without ever being overwhelming.
The Roasted Bell Peppers as a Side Dish is another trip down memory lane—the only thing missing is Luca Carboni’s “Mare mare” playing on a jukebox. On the menu, under main courses, I see Fried Calamari and Shrimp, Fish Soup, Mixed Grill, and then, lo and behold, Salt Cod with Roasted Bell Peppers, Capers, Cherry Tomatoes, and Olives. A dish my grandfather used to devour without holding anything back—though without the capers—he who’d endured prisoner-of-war camps in Greece as an Italian soldier during World War II. I know it’s a long way from the appetizers to dessert, but it’s worth keeping the salt cod with roasted peppers in mind if you’re ever in the area. Speaking of dessert, indulge to your heart’s content, but while the “Bomba” with cream is a must, the pain au chocolat with zabaglione is an escape from the world. If you’re undecided, you can also opt for a tasting menu, which features 5 courses agreed upon with the chef for sixty euros—a price that’s just a little higher than the average bill you’d pay for a three-course seafood meal à la carte at Casa Clementina.
The Dining Room and Hospitality
A warm, informal atmosphere, a welcoming smile, and an open kitchen. A minimalist table setting, and a wine list born of Daniele Mari’s care and curiosity—which I particularly appreciate given his deep focus on the Moselle and the small Champagne houses. Wine is an important companion on this culinary journey, and Casa Clementina’s selection pairs well with Curti’s cuisine.Bread, yeast-leavened goods, and pastries come from Luca Pezzetta’s Micro Forno—needless to say.
The news in this story isn’t that a place is opening in Fiumicino where you can enjoy good, honest, authentic, and fresh seafood—especially since the local culinary scene has been offering top-notch dining for years now. The news—for the enthusiasts who’ve been clamoring for it—is that Luca Pezzetta’s pizza is now available for lunch as well, but above all that Casa Clementina, thanks to Simone Curti’s cooking, is reviving a one-of-a-kind culinary experience that takes the restaurant back to the 1980s. The rocking fishing boats, the promenade along Via Torre Clementina, the sea in the background, and a plate of spaghetti with clams, some fried seafood, and two Margherita pizzas; everything is perfect, everything is delicious. Try finding that anywhere else.
Casa Clementina
Via della Torre Clementina, 158/b Fiumicino
Open every day except Tuesday | 6:30 PM–11:00 PM
📞3928461233
