WRENTHAM — I have to admit. I was a little taken aback when I learned that Evviva Trattoria has an option where they fry your pizza.
But after trying it, I can confirm two things.
First, the “montanara style” pizza, where the dough is quickly fried before topping and baking, is delicious.
Second, Evviva manages to walk the tricky tightrope between sticking with the classics you’d expect at an Italian restaurant while also modernizing the formula.
Clearly, that strategy is working. Since opening its first location in Westford in 2013, Evviva has expanded to 11 locations, including four in New Hampshire.
What’s the secret sauce that’s fueled Evviva’s growth?
Well, the actual red sauce isn’t exactly a secret. The ingredients — little more than tomatoes, onions, olive oil, salt — are all listed on the side of jars for sale.
Evviva COO Marcie Day says that every location is dedicated to maintaining quality across the board and doing nearly everything from scratch.
One benefit of that is Evviva’s ability to adjust for dietary restrictions. The restaurant prides itself on the fact that over 90% of the menu can be made gluten-free.
What’s good on the menu?
If you walk in wanting a conventional chicken parm, bolognese, tiramisu or Neapolitan-style pizza, you’re in for a treat.
But unlike a lot of Italian spots, there are some uncommon creations that make you go, “Oh, what is that?”
You’ll see it in the form of the lasagna fritters appetizer or the clever chicken Caesar sandwich on ciabatta.
But the one item that won me over the most is the montanara style pizza, which originated from the mountain towns outside of Naples.
This style of pizza involves taking the dough on a quick trip to the deep fryer on each side. The crust is then topped normally before heading into the oven to get everything melted.
The end result is a delicious pizza with an amazing crust that’s crispy on the outside and pillowy on the inside. Frying the dough also gives the crust a fun layer of sweetness — similar to fried dough.
Day describes Evviva’s food as “Italian-inspired, American-made.”
The Italian inspiration is present in the quality of the conventional dishes. I came away deeply impressed by the orechiette pasta and the meatballs.
At the same time, modern American touches add a spark of excitement that you don’t get at a lot of Italian restaurants.
I had a blast trying the lasagna fritters, which are a bit like a ricotta version of a mozzarella stick. The drink list includes an Italian lager brewed by Amory’s Tomb, a fantastic brewery in Maynard.
Evviva is full of those sorts of little touches that elevated it without taking away from the fundamentals of a great Italian restaurant.
Sure, the lasagna fritters are a little crazy. But they also make a killer chicken parm that can go toe-to-toe with anyone.
More info about Evviva Trattoria
Check them out: Website | Instagram | Facebook
Where are they located? — Evviva has 11 total locations.
The seven Massachusetts locations include: Hanover, Marlborough, Maynard, Stoneham, Westford, Wrentham and Quincy.
The four New Hampshire locations include: Rochester, Bedford, Nashua and Concord.
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