The quintessentially Canadian cocktail is the Caesar. Invented by Walter Chell in 1969, as a signature cocktail for a new Italian restaurant in Calgary, Chell’s
inspiration came from the classic Italian pasta dish, spaghetti vongole. He mixed housemade clam broth with tomato juice, added spices and Worcestershire sauce, garnished a tall glass with a celery stick and wedge of citrus, and the Caesar was born. The drink was an immediate hit and Canadians have never looked back. It’s become a Sunday morning brunch beverage favourite, a hair-of-the-dog go-to restorative for many a Canuck. There’s even a marketing strategy known as the Caesar effect; “If you see one, you want one.” Seeing a well-garnished Caesar carried on a tray to a nearby table instantly triggers the desire for one. I’ve fallen victim to this effect one too many times. Mott’s Clamato started the ball rolling with their Caesar mix, while two friends from Vancouver created the Walter Craft Caesar Mix, named in honor of Chell – but sadly their production is currently on hiatus. Kelowna’s Simps Modern Beverage, started by two bartenders, is keeping the locally-made vibe strong with three vegan Caesar mixes: Classic, Dill Pickle and Sriracha. PC Brand makes a version, as does Uncle Dougie’s, and most recently, Vancouver’s Rodney’s Oyster House has created two versions – Original and Spicy – available in cans. Mott’s also offers the mix in cans,
and it’s truly welcome, as I’m pretty sure the undated half empty 1.89 litre bottle of Mott’s I recently discovered at the back of my fridge is no longer of use. While some bars remain true to the drink’s original understated simplicity, the Caesar has evolved to become a creative outlet for bartenders across Canada. I love creating versions at home with various additions – from horseradish and extra Tabasco to garnishes that veer into a salad course. Celery plus pickled beans and pickled asparagus, I’m looking at you! The husband of a writing colleague of mine, who creates cocktail evenings for the two, regularly stirs up a Caesar. While leaning classic with nice leafy celery (he enjoyed Chell’s original at the Westin Calgary in the 60s- bonus points!), a wedge of lime and a celery salt rim, he often strays over to
Mott’s Extra Spicy, swaps out the vodka for tequila – calling it a Taesar – changes out the style of glassware it’s served in, and will add poached prawns to the garnish galley. These are all mild in comparison to the competitors vying for the prize in the third annual Battle Caesar taking place in Penticton for the month of November. Penticton bartenders have their vodka and Clamato poised at thirteen downtown hotspots where iterations on the Canadian classic promise everything from spicy to savoury to challenging piled-high, gravity-defying versions that playfully begs the question – is this bartending or catering? The list of competitors are: The Black Antler, Cannery Brewing, Elma, The Forest, Highway 97 Brewing, The Hub on Martin, Mack’s Social House, Orolo, Pasta Factory, Sociale on Lakeshore, Theo’s, The Underdog and Yellow Dog Brewing. And here are a few entrants to whet your whistle.
Two-time reigning champ, The Hub on Martin, has re-entered the ring this year with their Ultimate Breakfast Caesar, a full-on brunch teeter-tottering display of chicken and waffles, avocado toast with a fried quail egg, bacon, maple sausage and Hub tots, garnished with celery and an orange wheel. (Soldier on, as somewhere beneath all that is the drink!)
Also gilding the lily this year is The Underdog with a mini charcuterie board
covering a frosty Caesar – you better be hungry. Graze – or is it wrestle? – your way through prosciutto crostini with Guinness cheddar, Grana Padano and Choco-Latina-Tipple cheeses with salami, pickles and a baby beef dip complete with side of au jus.
Elma has entered the ring with an alluring Smoked Turkish Vodka Caesar, a collab creation between bartender Ashley Janz and sous chef Stephanie Roe. Their libation, salt-rimmed with a lime wedge, is crowned with a spear holding a circular sucuk borek (a savoury sausage and cheese pastry), bresaola, halloumi cheese, pepperoncini and a fried date.
OROLO doubles the pleasure with their Caesar incorporating elements of the
classic salad with the classic cocktail. Served in a tall glass, their house-made Caesar dressing is worked into the drink with a spike of horseradish, Tabasco,
Worcestershire and Clamato. The capper is a Caesar salad roll with all the
accompaniments contained within – Romaine, dressing, bacon bits and parmesan – deftly balanced alongside a caperberry, olives and lemon wedge.
And Cannery Brewing has taken the elegant and understated road for this year’s Caesar Battle. Co-owner Ian Dyck created their contender with a special house-made Clamato blend, playing with acidity, heat and seasoning. Ketel One Vodka adds to the kick with a rim of Magic Meat Dust’s Savoury Citrus Blend, and topped with a slab of peppered beef jerky from Penticton’s butchery champs, Tony’s Meats. And if vodka’s not your thing, you can swap it out for Plymouth Gin, or keep it sudsy with a Michaelada Beer Caesar made with Cannery’s Lakeboat Lager. A ballot to vote for your favourite is available at each location. Just remember to enjoy responsibly.
