Tagliatelle alla Bolognese with a meatball, sausage and four-ounce filet mignon at Luigi’s Ristorante Italiano in Mason on Thursday, Oct. 15, 2026.
Ray Marcano/Contributed
Years ago, my good friend and former Dayton police officer, Mike Tenore, were talking about Italian food when I asked, “How do you make your gravy?”
Tenore was momentarily speechless before he finally said, “You know gravy?”
Of course. It’s not red sauce or marinara. It’s gravy, the phrase some of us East coast guys (Tenore’s from New Jersey, I’m from New York) use and a phrase that’s been debated for decades (is it gravy? Ragu? Sugo?)
I went to Luigi’s Ristorante Italiano in Mason to taste the gravy after hearing raves about a restaurant that looks unassuming outside but has a hidden splash of Old-World charm inside.
Upon entering, customers will see a bar area with a few wood tables and chairs. But appearances can indeed be deceiving, as it was in this case. The back of the restaurant contained rooms with tables adorned in white linens, a touch that reminded me of the old school joints in New York’s Little Italy. Those rooms had robust crowds when I visited on Thursday, Oct. 15, and next time, I’ll ask for one of those well-appointed tables.
Thursdays happened to be lasagna night ($25 for the main and a salad) and I nearly ordered that. But I wanted to taste the gravy, and our friendly server, Kennedy, suggested the tagliatelle alla Bolognese.
The margherita caprese pizza at Luigi’s Ristorante Italiano in Mason, OH on Thursday Oct. 15, 2026
Ray Marcano/Contributed
But before I got to the food, I needed wine, and the impressive list offered options from $29 a bottle to $125 and more.
That evening’s feature, the 2022 Bennati ‘Ireos’ Rosso Veronese, was a bargain at $8 a glass and reminded me of the house wine I’ve had in Italy. It was light with medium tannins and a taste that’s hard to pin down because it’s a blend of five grapes. I did pick up fruitiness from the cabernet sauvignon and little light raspberry from the pinot nero (noir). All in all, it was enjoyable, and the bargain bottle price ($29) is hard to beat.
I also ordered the Villa Barbi rosso from Umbria ($12 glass/$45 bottle), a bigger wine with currants, blackberries and medium tannins. It’s wine that punches above its weight and would go with anything on the menu.
Kennedy brought warm ciabatta to the table with a plate of buttery olive oil, thick balsamic and pesto. That with a charcutier plate and a bottle of the rosso would have made a meal on its own.
For an appetizer, I ordered the arancini ($11), two large pieces served with pomodoro sauce. The firm outside needed more crunch, and the filling had lots of light risotto but not enough cheese to give it that gooey consistency. I’ve been searching for an excellent classic arancini, and while this was OK, I’ll have to keep looking.
Cannoli, one with chocolate chips and the other pistachios, with strawberries and chocolate drizzle at to Luigi’s Ristorante Italiano in Mason, OH on October 15, 2026.
Ray Marcano/Contributed
For dinner, I ordered the Bolognese ($26) and added a meatball ($6), Italian sausage ($5) and a four-ounce filet ($15). I’ve never seen a restaurant of any type that offers a quarter pound of quality meat for such a low price.
For a second dish, I considered marsala or piccata because I could sample a different sauce. But I decided on a margherita caprese pizza ($20) to see how a classic Italian restaurant prepares a staple of American cuisine.
The tagliatelle came out piping hot with the pasta and meat in a single bowl. When Bolognese simmers for hours it transforms into a rich, thick sauce, and this version, with beef and veal, burst with flavor. The dish had just enough sauce to cling to the al dente tagliatelle, a nice change from the over-sauced pasta that dominates too many restaurants.
The large meatball was so soft I was surprised it held its shape. I could taste the fennel in the sausage that had a nice, crisp bite from the casing, another example of the high-quality ingredients Luigi’s uses.
I asked for the filet medium, but it came to the table rare, so I sent it back. Still, when brought to the proper temp, it was a moist, tender cut of nicely seasoned beef with a little char from the grill. Luigi’s says it’s an Italian steakhouse and based on this filet, I’m looking forward to trying one of their steaks that have been aged at least 30 days (the 28-ounce porterhouse for $89 caught my eye).
The bar area at Luigi’s Ristorante Italiano in Mason, OH, on Oct. 15, 2026
Ray Marcano/Contributed
The large, eight-slice pizza had tremendous chew and a buttery crust. It folded like a slice should and wasn’t excessively topped, so you could taste the ingredients. It’s an impressive pie, one of the best I’ve had recently.
For dessert, I ordered cannoli, which came two to a plate, one with chocolate chips and the other pistachios. The strawberries and chocolate drizzle were a nice touch, but it didn’t need it. The mascarpone cheese was accented with lemon and orange zest, adding a delicious citrusy taste. An expresso or bourbon would have been a nice accompaniment, but I had some rosso left so I passed. (Luigi’s serves two-ounce pours of good bourbon, like Wild Turkey and New Riff, at $11 and up).
Luigi’s Ristorante Italiano in Mason, OH on Oct. 15, 2026. The restaurant has an area featuring tables with white linens.
Ray Marcano/Contributed
Luigi’s is what a family-owned Italian restaurant should be. It has a touch of class with white tablecloths, top-notch ingredients and excellent gravy.
Mike Tenore would approve. So would Nonna.
The Review
5 = outstanding, 4 = above average, 3= average, 2 = poor, 1 = terrible
What: Luigi’s Ristorante Italiano, 404 Second Ave. Mason, OH
Ambiance: 3.5. Ask for a table with white tablecloths
Wine list: 4. Something for everyone
Arancini: 3. Needs more crunch
Tagliatelle alla Bolognese. 4.5: Outstanding gravy
Pizza: 4.5: Great chew, flavor
Dessert: 4. Marvelous mascarpone
Service: 4: Attentive
Upcoming wine dinners
Prices are per person
** Includes tax and tip
Oct. 22: Obscure grapes, Manna, Centerville, $65/$89 with wine
Oct. 24: A Taste of Italy, Light on the Hill, Casstown, $90
Oct. 28: Wine and Dine, Yankee Trace, Centerville, $96
Oct. 28: Spooky wine dinner, Salar, $75/$99 with wine
Oct. 28: Tasting and Tapa’s, Ray’s Wine, Spirits, Grill, Clayton, $60. Email for RSVP
Oct. 29: 5-course Duckhorn wine dinner, McCormick & Schmick’s, Cincinnati, $140
Nov. 4: Huneeus Family Vintners 5-Course Pairing Event, Napa Kitchen and Bar, Dublin, OH, $235**
Nov. 5: Duckhorn wine dinner, Eddie Merlot’s, Cincinnati, $120
Nov. 10: Ca’ Del Baio wine dinner, Cento Italiano, Columbus, $190
Nov. 11: Friendsgiving in Wine Country, Cooper’s Hawk, Centerville, OH, $79
Nov. 12: An Evening with C.B. Crane, Salar, Dayton, $198 **
Nov. 14: Jungle Jim’s International Wine Festival, Fairfield, $40 to $200
Nov. 16: Wine club paring dinner, Cooper’s Hawk, Dayton, Mason and Columbus locations, $79
Nov. 18: Huneeus Family Vintners 5-Course Pairing Event, Napa Kitchen and Bar, Westerville, OH, $235**
Nov. 19: Wine dinner, TBA, Manna, Centerville, $65/$89 with wine
Nov. 30: Mixology Monday with Four Roses, Salar, Dayton, $89
Dec. 22: Wine dinner, Yankee Trace, Centerville, $96
Dec. 22: Wine dinner, Manna, Centerville, $65/$89 with wine
Send your wine or cocktail dinner listings to winedineddn@gmail.com
Ray Marcano
