When October comes around, I might as well add an -i or an -o to the end of my name. I become focused on Italian/Italian American dishes, which leads to concentrating on wines from Italy for accompaniment. This year I am covering much of that country.
Ruggero di Bardo Susumaniello Red 2024 (Puglia). In recent years the ancient local susumaniello variety has become the pride of the heel of Italy (Salento), both for reds and rosés. Here it is presented as purple ruby in color, fullish in body and rather robust in overall mouthfeel. Flavor features dark cherry, raspberry and, in the finish, a hint of allspice. Oven-roasted balsamic or olive oil chicken thighs or pork chops with rosemary roast potatoes bring out its best. (Trader Joe’s, $10.99)
Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2024 (Abruzzo). In its usual price range ($7-$10), Md’A wines are predictable: carmine red, medium body and quite dry mouthfeel. But for several dollars more, we can go beyond that. The cherry-jam savor has a backdrop of plums, smokiness and thyme. And, most of all, it is well-structured, with the promise of several years of further development. For me, it is Italy in a glass, and while it shines with grilled meat, my preference is for Italian American manicotti. (World Market, member price $13.99 – membership is free; $14.99 reg. price)
Falesco Vitiano Rosso 2022 (Umbria). This equal mix of sangiovese, merlot and cab sauv presents deep crimson color and bold mouthfeel. Surprisingly, there are some floral high notes, yet the flavor is marked profoundly by “forest floor” earthiness (think mushrooms). Personally, it is what I want for my version of eggplant parmigiana, but you might prefer steak pizzaiola (and yes, with mushrooms to your heart’s content). (Harris Teeter, $13.99 sale price; reg. price $16.99)
Ruffino 1877 Chianti 2024 (Tuscany). The winery’s founding date was in 1877, in an era when it was typical to include a minor amount of white grapes along with red (now always sangiovese). Here, the technique results in cheery crimson cherry color, light-medium body and dominant dryness from mid-palate into the savory aftertaste. Flavor is marked by a mix of ripe red plum and raspberry, with a touch of herbaceous earthiness toward the finish. It is fit accompaniment for a slow-baked beef and vegetable casserole with a little tomato sauce). (Food Lion, $14)
Alcesti Frappato 2023 (Sicily). Inviting dark Bing-cherry red color leads to light-medium body. If there were an “allberry” the way there is an “allspice,” it might resemble the fruit flavor found here; if any particular berry exerts itself, it is blueberry. A surprise is the light chalkiness that comes on in mid-taste and characterizes the finish. Be sure to serve with a slight chill. Have it with a slow-simmered beef stew with wine, orange rind or green olives. (The Wine Seller, $15.99)
Tenuta di Tavignano Marche Rosato 2025 (Marche). Here is a well-priced, characterful rosé. Standout light salmon pink color with orangish overlay might suggest what is to come, and it does not fail. Lightish medium in body, everything is restrained, all the way into a measured yet very refreshing finish. Fruit flavor veers toward peach and mango, yet with a minty/peppery note. Its varietal origin is the regional red lacrima with 1/4-1/5 admixture of the widespread sangiovese. A nice choice for chicken piccata. (Williamsburg Pottery, $16.98)
Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino di Sardegna 2025 (Sardinia). This vermentino is a bit of a brainteaser when it comes to description. It is pale-greenish-yellow in color, yet on the verge of medium-body. Further, its very well-defined acidity gives an unexpected impression of sleekness that culminates in persistent mouthfeel. Not surprisingly, flavor tends toward lime, kiwi and tart tropical fruits. Have it with roasted or pan-seared branzino (sea bass) with olive oil or thyme. (The Cheese Shop, $18.59)
Miles Lambert is a Williamsburg resident.
