Every morning at Nonna’s Italian Deli and Specialties, Rick Riccio starts the day by making fresh mozzarella, continuing a family food tradition that stretches back more than a century. From imported olives and Brooklyn pastries to recipes passed down through multiple generations, the Summerville deli blends Italian heritage with ingredients sourced from local vendors and producers.
In fridges along the wall are containers on containers of every variant of ravioli. Pasta salads fill the deli case, as well as ingredients needed to bring authentic Italian flavor to your own kitchen. Opposite, mouthwatering cookies and cannoli sit on trays dusted with powdered sugar as generations of family smile on the scene from the numerous family photos positioned all around the store. Riccio spoke with The Journal Scene about family, food and bringing a taste of the Northeast to the Lowcountry.
How did you get started in this industry?
My maternal great grandfather came to this country in 1922 [and] did an apprenticeship in a bakery in Hoboken, New Jersey. Two years later, he opened up his own bakery in Jersey City [and] had 10 kids, one of them my grandmother. The whole family went into butchers and bakers and all that.
I kind of grew up in the business, but I never followed that. I actually did follow my father’s footsteps. I did 30 years working in Manhattan in administration for universities. When I retired about seven or eight years ago, I opened up a pizzeria in Point Pleasant Beach, New Jersey, subsequently followed by a deli in Tom’s River, something a little bit bigger than [Nonna’s].
I’ve been doing fresh mozzarella and all that since I was 7 or 8 years old. We decided about two years ago that we were done with New Jersey. Started looking around South Carolina. Fell in love with Summerville because of the proximity to Charleston. We loved the coast. But that said, we had survived through [Hurricane] Sandy, and we said, “Well, we’re not doing that again.”
So, we went more inland, had a home built in Summerville, and decided that we wanted to do something similar to what we did up north, but we weren’t sure how it was going to pan out. So that’s why we kind of went with a smaller place. Eva’s was available for sale, which we purchased. We still own the intellectual property to Eva’s. Turned it into what you see here—a traditional Italian northeast [deli].
What’s a proudest moment so far?
We do take pride in what we do. It’s all about traditions, as you see on the wall with the pictures. So I kind of got into this crazy business, the back way of doing it. But here we are. I guess proudest moment is pretty much almost every day here in the customs committee, and we talk about our food, and it brings back memories to when they were growing up. A lot of the cookies that we have are some we actually still get from Brooklyn.
What’s a favorite customer exchange?
When they come in and they talk about our food, they have our pastries, and they just say, “It brought back memories,” and they love it. My whole thing is when a customer comes in and says, “Hey, really enjoyed it,” that means myself and our staff are doing what we’re supposed to be doing, and it’s about our customer service.
The minute you walk in the door, you’re greeted. We use samples because my philosophy is very simple. I rather you taste it before you purchase it.
Where else in town do you enjoy?
As far as other restaurants in Summerville, I would say La Rustica is up there. Unfortunately, I don’t get out that much because I’m usually here.
Editor’s note: This Q&A has been edited for length and clarity.
