The Pasta Nazi is at it again. This time, Tal Rashevsky has traded the pasta bowls of Tometomato and LAVA for white tablecloths, schnitzel and a decidedly more polished setting on Park HaMesila.
Rashevsky first gained viral notoriety for his famously indifferent attitude toward customers at his Florentin pasta joint. Inspired by the Seinfeld character, his theatrical persona involved yelling at patrons and making them wait hours for their pasta. Love him or hate him, there’s no denying that the restaurateur has a knack for getting people talking, and beneath the theatrics is a chef who’s as charming as he is talented.
Is the joke on us?
Which brings me to the white tablecloths.
As someone who lives near Park HaMesila, I watched them go up at Oscar’s with a mix of skepticism and begrudging amusement. Schnitzel? On white tablecloths? In Tel Aviv? It felt like Rashevsky was playing another joke on us, this time to see just how much we would shell out for fried chicken and mashed potatoes if he dressed them up enough.
And it’s working.
Oscar’s is an elevated schnitzel bar dressed up for a night out, with a tightly focused menu built around chicken, potatoes and a few clever vegetarian options.
All three schnitzels – chicken, veal and corn – come with a leafy salad dressed in citrus vinaigrette alongside buttery mashed potatoes. My favorite was the Sweet “Gili” Corn Schnitzel (NIS 88), which has all the nostalgic appeal of childhood comfort food, but with enough grown-up touches to suit Oscar’s European-style elegance.
The chicken nuggets (NIS 44) are another must if they’re serving them that day. Tempura-fried and served with a sweet and sour citrus sauce and orange zest, they’re crispy, indulgent and reason enough to order something extra for the table.
On to the sides. The ptitim with sage butter and lemon (NIS 37) feels like a little wink to Rashevsky’s pasta reputation, while the mashed potato fries come showered in three-year-aged Reggiano (NIS 42). Don’t skip either. Maybe just book a gym class for the following day.
Appetizers range from NIS 18 to NIS 52 and mains from NIS 88 to NIS 106. It’s not cheap schnitzel, but that’s sort of the point.
Hats off to Rashevsky
The bar staff is excellent, and the drinks are worth sticking around for. Classic cocktails range from NIS 48 to NIS 58, while the three signature cocktails run from NIS 56 to NIS 58. That includes the Vienna After Dark, described as a liquid apple strudel, which is particularly fun if you want to lean into the restaurant’s playful side. Wine is also available by the glass from NIS 28 to NIS 60.
Grab a seat at the bar, which is first come, first served, or wait for a table overlooking the park. Is expensive schnitzel served on white tablecloths a little over the top? Sure. But then again, so is Rashevsky’s personality, so what did we expect? Consider me convinced.
There’s only one dessert on the menu, so Oscar’s has determined how your night will end: chocolate mousse (NIS 28). It’s rich, indulgent and exactly right after a meal like this. Because if you’re going to embrace pretentious schnitzel, you might as well go all the way.
Chicken, potatoes, cheese, butter and chocolate? Fine. The joke can be on me. I’ll gladly take it.
Oscar’s
Nahalat Binyamin St 68, Tel Aviv
Reservations: First come, first served
Hours: Sunday to Thursday, 18:00 to 23:00; Friday and Saturday, 17:00 to 23:00
Lauren Gumport is an avid traveler, travel writer, and VP of Communications at travel tech start-up Faye Travel Insurance. Her travel tips have been featured in The Wall Street Journal, USA Today, Fox News, and more. Follow her on Instagram @Gumport.
The writer was a guest of the restaurant.
