Defonte’s has been doing things the same way for decades, and that’s exactly why people keep coming back. It’s a classic Red Hook institution — a true workingman’s sandwich shop where the only thing that matters is what’s between the bread.
I met up with Mike Kaufman AKA Overtime Mikey @overtimemikey to order one of the house favorites: the Nicky Special. Ham, Capicola, Salami, Fried Eggplant, Provolone, Hot Salad, Marinated Mushrooms, Lettuce, Tomato, Oil & Vinegar.
It’s big & messy, yet somehow every ingredient still gets its moment.
For the pairing, I brought Vietti’s “La Crena” Barbera d’Asti. Barbera has the bright acidity and juicy fruit to cut through all the cured meats, while staying fresh enough to let the tangy Peppers, Mushrooms, and Vinegar shine.
Sometimes the best pairings don’t reinvent the wheel — they just remind you why classics become classics.
🥪 Nicky Special — Defonte’s
🍷 Vietti “La Crena” Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy)
👥 Mike Kaufman
📍 Red Hook, Brooklyn
🎶 “Bebop Blues” by Vendla
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