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For 26 years, pizza perfectionist and visionary Anthony Mangieri of Una Pizza Napoletana has made the same thing, only a little better every day.

He broke through as a tattooed hipster baker and a one-track food obsessive in 1996, long before these identities became millennial archetypes. His single-mindedness foreshadowed a generation of young food geeks who would lock themselves in a garage and not step back out into the light of day until they’d mastered the chocolate chip cookie.

He championed true Neapolitan pizza at least a decade before the Neapolitan pizza renaissance began to take hold.