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Sri Lankan cuisine’s international stock has been on the rise in recent years. From ‘San Rasa’ restaurant in New York’s Little Sri Lanka district to the spectacularly successful ‘Hoppers’ in London’s Soho, the vibrant flavours of the paradise island are whetting appetites the world over.
As major cities around the world strive to become more ‘farm to table’, Sri Lanka is a locavore’s dream: fresh produce, spices, coconut and homegrown rice remain the heart of most dishes. All are usually sourced within a few kilometres or less from any kitchen. It’s true that this may often be for reasons of necessity as much as sustainability, but the result is the same – unbelievably fresh, local food hitting plates everywhere you go here.
Not many appreciate such subtle differences because despite Sri Lankan cuisine’s burgeoning acclaim it’s still hard to track down really good recipes outside the country. There is no definitive guide, and there are few great cookbooks, which is odd considering you never seem to be far from an incredible chef here. So to put matters right, I’m meeting one of its best.
Nihal Senanayake is executive chef at Jetwing Lighthouse hotel, which is perched dramatically on the rocks in Galle on Sri Lanka’s sun-soaked southern coast. Like many who choose the kitchen as a career, Nihal learnt his skills early and from his mother.
“My first experiences cooking were with her.” He tells me. “I learnt to make dishes like dhal curry, jackfruit curry, green bean curry – all so simple but so delicious.”
Stints at culinary school and many years in leading kitchens have led to Nihal becoming one the most respected chefs on the island. His modern fusion dishes served in the Jetwing Lighthouse’s hotel restaurant have scooped plenty of awards, but he values traditional Sri Lankan cuisine just as highly. The beauty, he explains, being simplicity: “Our food is not difficult to prepare or create, but the flavours are unique.” He says. “From Galle to Nuwara Eliya, it is all about using the local ingredients found in the area, and the preparation of the spices.”
To demonstrate, Nihal has pulled together a menu of five dishes that anyone could try at home. Each is designed to showcase both the produce and cooking style of a different region and all recipes have been created by a head chef at a different Jetwing hotel property. Each works as standalone meal, served simply with rice, mango chutney and poppadoms, but they can also be cooked together. You could try two or three, or go the whole hog and cook your own classic Sri Lankan Rice & Curry feast.
Get the recipes and read the full story here: