Wine Can be Purchased Here:
Ventura County, Upper Ojai
Rich Vineyard is a small vineyard in Upper Ojai that we’ve leased Barbera from since 2014. The vines are planted on a gentle south-westerly slope of calcareous clay loam and are bathed in warm sunshine. It’s a different world entirely from the alpine foothills of Piedmonte, Italy, where the Barbera grape originates. But that’s a-okay as far as growing Barbera here, because this durable grape has a special radiance of its own in California.
Barbera is actually uniquely terrific for warm growing regions. Whereas most grapes have winemakers nervous about losing too much acidity near harvest, with Barbera you wait and wait for the pH to rise into a realm where the wine won’t tear the enamel off your teeth. Some people let the vine ripen into that realm (picking at 28 brix) and water the must back, others mix chalk into the wine to raise its pH, whereas we lean on the utility of whole-clusters to help temper the acidity.
Stems decrease acidity, so with a majority whole-cluster fermentation the peaks and valleys in this high-acid red aren’t so severe. There’s lots of carbonic effect, too, with that candied aromatic lift augmenting this varietal’s fruity character, while botanical aromatics from the stems complicate the fruit. Expect effusive dark cherry, pomegranate and blood orange flavors, with a fine gauze of herby stem tannins. There’s still plenty of enthralling twang, but in a smoother, more rolling way. This 2017 Barbera is just a joy to drink, and ought to cellar well, but it’s delicious and open for business right now.