Italian food historian cooks up carbonara controversy

Food is a serious business in Italy, part of the national identity, as illustrated by a row that has broken out over how to make carbonara pasta sauce.

Luca Cesari, a food historian and author from Bologna, faced a stream of online abuse after he posted a video on Instagram in which he presented what he said was the original version of carbonara, considered a classic of Roman cooking.

Ditching the usual ingredients of Italian pecorino cheese and cured pork cheek to be mixed with eggs to create a creamy sauce, the carbonara presented by Cesari was made with Swiss gruyere cheese, garlic, bacon and pan-fried eggs.

Cesari said he had gone back to the original recipe published in an Italian cookery magazine almost 70 years ago and was trying to show how the recipe evolved over the decades.

Other examples of what Italians consider food heresy are pairing pasta with ketchup sauce, or adding pineapple to pizza, together with a de facto ban on ordering cappuccino after lunch.
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