STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. โ On Staten Island, where classic Italian restaurants are woven into the local food fabric, music has never been an afterthought. And as viral moments like Barillaโs pastaโtimed playlists spark fresh conversation about mood music and mindful meal consumption, many local chefs say certain soundtracks have been on their minds for decades. From the dining room to the bowels of the kitchen, music sets the tempo as much as the temperament, guiding the easy flow of both food and service.
Bocelli in Grasmere even draws its name from the famed tenor Andrea Bocelli. Sometimes youโll hear his music there. But at Joe Mozzโs cheese factory in Port Richmond, you really hear the music.
Giuseppe Badalamenti, better known as โJoe Mozz,โ says the songs help guide his workdays spent crafting hundreds of pounds of fresh mozzarella.
โWhen I cook, I enjoy listening to Andrea and Matteo Bocelli, Laura Pausini, Domenico Modugno,โ Badalamenti said. The Italy native, now a proud New Yorker, also appreciates Billy Joel. An equalโopportunity piano lover, he says the instrument itself is part of the appeal, though his heart remains with older Italian songs.
โIt makes me relaxed,โ Joe Mozz said.
Chef Gianfranco Franzese of Eat Italian in Rossville named Al Bano, praising the singerโs sweeping, romantic pop ballads and his powerhouse voice. โHis songs are amazing,โ Franzese said.
Chef Massimo Felici of Don Cheech, meanwhile, points to โCarusoโ by Lucio Dalla and nearly any of the greatest hits by the Italian singer Mina.
โMina is the ultimate Italian iconโfrom the โ60s, โ70s, โ80s and โ90s,โ Felici said. โSheโs still around. Thereโs no one bigger than her.โ
Felici also credits Dalla not just as a performer but as a songwriter. โLucio Dalla wasnโt just a singer,โ he said. โHe wrote all his own material and wrote for many other major artists.โ
โYou can translate the lyrics of their songs,โ Felici added. โIf you do, youโll understand how deep these stories are. This is real Italian musicโnot the Sopranos and Godfather stuff from the movies. In Italy, this is what we listen to even today.โ
Felici was referring to โCaruso,โ which imagines the legendary tenor Enrico Caruso in his final days in Sorrento, reflecting on love, memory and the narrowing window of life.
Another song from Feliciโs playlists underscores the emotional depth beneath what might otherwise sound like casual humming. โBella senzโanimaโ by Riccardo Cocciante endures because it strips romance of sentimentality and reveals love at its most unbalancedโbeautiful on the surface, devastating underneath. Itโs the kind of song that hits long after the music stops. For Italian speakers, one could say itโs the kind of song that opens the door to a good, ugly cry.
Frank Sinatraโs timeless words still ring through Staten Islandโfor restaurant owners and everyone else. (Advance/SILive.com | Carol Ann Benanti)Staten Island Advance
Eddie DeGorter isnโt a chef, but as an electrician known as โEddie the Hatโ who spends plenty of time in Italian restaurants, he has strong feelings about atmosphere.
โI remember an old Italian restaurant with an antique jukebox,โ DeGorter said. โEvery record was Frank Sinatra. You didnโt put money inโyou just pushed a button for your favorite song. They kept the sound low, the lighting the same. A real loversโ hangout.โ
DeGorter wonโt share the exact name of the place. Thereโs no sign on the building, just โa spot on Mill Road in Brooklyn.โ The ownerโs name is Frank, so everyone simply says, Meet me at Frankโs place.
It doesnโt open until 2 p.m.โwhat DeGorter calls a late lunch. When itโs time, Frank steps outside with a container of salt and sprinkles the sidewalk. Thatโs how you know itโs officially open.Like a wellโmade plate of pasta finished with garlicky tomato sauce, the moment is fleeting but deeply felt. DeGorter says itโs a memory that hangs around.
โBy the way,โ DeGorter adds, โBasilioโs is celebrating its 105th anniversary. Stop by and say hello to Maurice. And if you do get the chance, ask him to put the jukebox back in the dining room.โ
