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The stretch between Rovinj and Pula packs in more than the forty-minute drive suggests. This video covers the flat rocks on Rovinj’s southern peninsula where locals spread out for afternoon swims in remarkably clear water, where to find the better restaurants behind the tourist harbor strip, and the first glimpse of Pula’s Roman amphitheater—a two-thousand-year-old arena still standing at the city’s heart. Dinner in Rovinj runs fifteen to forty euros depending on where you land. The key is looking for handwritten menus and tables where locals are eating.

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