Jamie in Porto | Jamie Oliver

In 2022, Jamie visited the costal city of Porto – known for its lavish architecture, bustling seafood markets, and magnificent port wine cellars. Come along with Jamie as he takes you on a jam-packed whistle stop tour of this beautiful Portuguese city’s culinary delights!

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I’m heading to Porto in Portugal for a whistle stop food tour. They’ve gone absolutely mad on tiles, tiles tiles tiles everywhere, and they’re super cool. With just 24 hours to explore I haven’t had time to plan much but I’m so excited to see what Porto has got to offer and what food inspiration I can find. I’m gonna have a little nibble. And a beer! So day one in Porto, Portugal, I’m very very excited. I’ve got a green card to get out and about, learn things taste things suck up all of the culture, so as it’s early I’m going to go and have a nice little bit of breakfast but, before I get to the cafe that I’ve planned to go, to have a look at this one. I mean how many cafes do you know back home that have this? Absolutely beautiful. One of the reasons I came here is because I know so little about about it. I’ve always imagined that there would be amazing seafood and port, but pastries turn out to also be incredible here. The cafes are full of people from all walks of life and they’re filled with freshly baked goods, full of nutty frangipane-y caramel-y flavours, I just love it. Sadly I haven’t got all day to try every pastry, there’s a whole city of food to explore, and the clock is ticking. So we’re off to meet Antonio who runs a gorgeous deli that’s been open for more than a 100 years to find out a little bit more about what local snacks are on offer. Hello! Bom dia! Bom dia hi Jamie, nice to meet you! You know me? Yes! A long time ago. How are you, what’s your name? I’m working. Antonio. Antonio? This is a beautiful shop ((Yeah?)). This window display for instance it’s like a Christmas display of pork I mean it’s incredible, this is a story really isn’t it? You’re telling a story here. Yes more or less. The normally, the boss… Yeah of course, the boss, we need to meet the boss. 100 years old. Really? Really! The boss is 100 years old? …More or less. 90-something yeah, they still working. Wow. Yeah do everything. Yeah make sure you’re doing your job right. Ahh no. You take any of these products, put them in with some beans and a few vegetables, cover them with water and cook them slowly, and you’re going to have the… You’re going to have the meal. Is this another bean here? It’s another kind of bean. Right. We normally eat that kind when you drink a beer. Oh you just eat them like that. Yes yes. So are these in water you soaked… Yes, salty water. There’s some salty water, because it’s so salty it’s good for drink. Do you want to try one? Yeah! Why not? So you have to peel. So just peel it… then out it comes. Oh it’s delicious! Yes I know, it’s why we sell haha. So Antonio I don’t understand Portuguese but I do understand the words… Promotion. Yeah! One euro, promotion, and there’s a barrel. What is in the barrel? Is a liquor, a lot of people calls cherry liquor but it’s not a cherry, it’s the cousin of cherry called ginja. It looks like a cherry, the taste is more sour and more dry. Okay so what do you do with it? The special we drink especially with the little cup of chocolate. No way! Seriously? Yes yes! So I take a chocolate. You put here… No! And we open the… Oh you Portuguese are so sophisticated, you’re so classy! No! And we drink. No you don’t drink, you eat and you drink! Eat it, and we eat it because there’s no dishes to do. So what’s the best do I put it on my tongue and let my tongue heat it up and melt it, or do I just crunch it? No no no try to melt it a little. Antonio… Is good? Antonio! This is wonderful. Where did this invention come from? I don’t know… is more less like Romeo and Juliet, the cheese and the marmalade, they have some flavours they, it’s incredible how they mix… ((Marry.)) They marry so well, so well so well, from eternity. No but Antonio it’s not just about flavours that marry, you’ve given me an edible cup. Yes. I eat everything. Yes. It explodes. Explodes in the… And now I can feel the alcohol going through my body, and everything just looks more beautiful. Oh my god. Viva Portugal, come on! Amazing. Switzerland? Ferrero Rocher? No no no no ((No no no no)). We want ginja with the copas de chocolate. Yeah, take that to the ambassador’s party. Oh my god. Antonio I don’t know what to say you’ve given me beautiful pork, you’ve given me a lovely little alcoholic breakfast. So nice to meet you! Nice to meet you too! You’ve given my trip the most brilliant start. Bye bye! Take care. De nada, take care. So on the edge of Porto is this little fishing Village here called Afurada, now I don’t know where I’m going to eat lunch yet but I can smell something good is going to happen they’re all cooking outside the restaurants and little tavernas over charcoal, I know they’ve got amazingly fresh fish. So I have no idea what I’m going to get but I’m so excited and I’ve heard that everything around here is absolutely delicious. Beautiful sardines. Hi chef! Bom dia. Look at that. Nothing more Portuguese than sardines grilling over charcoal. And of course it’s such an incredible dry heat. You get all the fats dripping off, look at the fats! And the flame. I’m now deciding what I want for lunch. Chef Filipe owns this street food store and cooks outside all year round, even in winter which is when we’re here. The secret to this amazing cooking is even heat distribution to get everything really evenly crisp and then finishing it off with a squeeze of lemon juice. The ingredients here are so fresh, keeping it simple is bliss. Filipe doesn’t put any salt on the squid or the cuttlefish, just the sardines and the other flatfish and the bream and stuff, so yeah really nice it’s that lovely dry heat. And of course with the sardines the fat starts to render out and create those little puffs of flame which creates the smoke, which creates the flavour again. Simple food but just done so well. Freshness, diligent cooking. Oho, here we go! Delicious, thank you. Look at that. I’m going straight in with fingers haha, just no time. Oh! So fresh. So good. I’m gonna use knife and forks now ‘cos me mum would tell me off. These sardines have actually, they’ve been cooked with the roe in which I’ve never ever tried. This is bread, this bread is on the grill, you’re going to put traditional bread under the sardine, then the oil we going to pass for the bread and the flavour is totally different. One piece of bread? Yeah. Yeah behind the sardine. Okay, sardines on toast. Yeah. Lovely. Let’s have a little go, let’s see if you’re right… Completely different. Just soaks up all the fat doesn’t it? It’s delicious. Thank you very much ((Thank you)). That’s amazing. What a beautiful day, so we’ve left Porto and this is where the river meets the sea and I want to see some of the incredible fish that they’re catching in this area so I’m off to the fish market. Matosinhos market boldly claims to have the very best fish in the area, I think I’m going to have to test that claim for myself. Built all all the way back in the 1930s, the market building is laid out over two floors, and you can find greengrocers, butchers, bakers, and of course plenty of fresh fish straight from the port. That’s what I’m interested in. So we are in the fish market, look at that, beautiful flatfish, John Dory. Look at the size of that one, my god. What you can do around here is you can buy your fish and then the restaurants nearby will cook the fish that you’ve bought. So I’m quite excited about some of these. Bom dia! So these are local, that’s fantastic. One, please? [Speaking Portuguese] So we’re going to have seis of those. Look at these little Dover Soles! Nice, beautiful. What’s this? Looks like a little shark fish. What do we call that then? [Speaking Portuguese] Look at these little Dover Soles they’re tiny. Thank you, obrigado. Oh, bless you, thank you! She just gave me a heart, thank you. The biggest gurnard I think I’ve ever seen which is one of my favourite fish it’s a local one around here. It’s a beautiful white flaky fish. The idea is we buy this, I’m going to butterfly it, she’s going to gut it for me, and then we’ll take it to one of the places around here and ask them to cook it. Thank you my darling. Thank you so much. So now let’s get this fish cooked, see if we can find someone to cook it. Bom dia! How are you? How are you my friend? Is it possible that you can cook some fish? Yes! Haha, this is great. Look we got one table here. We have… yeah, we’re hungry! You know this one? Yes, it’s a big one. It is. Then I got some of this. Little baby hake. Okay. What are we making, so this is what you always make for the fish? This is the base for the rice. Okay so what rice… Fresh tomato rice. Tomato rice, to go with our fish. Yeah. Good things are happening now so we got tomato rice, we got this lovely plancha to cook it, we have a grill. So we can turn the grill on yeah? Yeah yeah. We can grill some fish, plancha some fish, make some rice. We’ll use everything! These little places are amazing, a real taste of local authentic cooking with the freshest ingredients, although I’m getting the feeling that this might might be the most fish in the smallest amount of time that my new mate Fernando has ever cooked. It’s beautiful chaos, I love it ((Chaos, really chaos)). He’s been very generous to look after me. Oh no it’s a pleasure. What an absolute joy to be able to treat my crew to such an incredible feast. Okay, well done Fernando! So what do you want to drink? Uh, for me and the crew we’ll have a beer and thank you very much. Not bad for 25 minutes yeah? 25 it’s a new record, really believe me. So look let’s just do a little plate. That’s a little bit of Fernando’s tomato rice, let’s get some of those lovely clams, let’s take a little bit of this John Dory. One of these beautiful hakes. Look at that come on we got a feast! We got a feast here! Look at this, look at this beautiful gurnard I’ve never seen it so big. Big chunk! Look at that. So there you go, a little market special. Cooked with a lot of love from our friend, our new friend Fernando. The best beer on the market. Thank you very much Fernando, cheers guys. Cheers. Enjoy your meal you and your crew, I’m going to get more beer because when it’s… Haha, thank you my friend! Ooh, so the … that looked a little bit like little baby sharks, it’s delicious, very meaty. The John Dory, just with olive oil and salt. Such a great fish. Let’s try the local clams. Oh! Sweet. Sweet sweet sweet. And then you got these amazing little hakes, I love the way they put the tail in the mouth. Dip them in flour. Oh my lord. Yum! Thank you Fernando! Top man. Very nice, honest, simple food, cooked simply a little salt, little olive oil, we got you know some parsley and lemon juice. Happy days, you can’t get fresher than that so I love it. I simply couldn’t come all the way to Porto without trying a little bit of port too. I’ve eaten all day and I’m pretty sure with all of that walking I deserve a little drink… or two. This port lodge has existed since 1751 and has been run always by the same family, and I’m going to meet their head wine maker Luiz Who can talk me through everything that I need to know about port and hopefully give me a little taste too. Lovely to meet you. Nice to see you. This place is extraordinary! Yes. It’s unbelievable. So this was a house before? Yes, before it’s a house. Where you are before is street. Oh my lord, you Portuguese know how to do it. That’s another version of tree hugging. The morning you know we taste every day until 11 and 1 o’clock. Every day, port, before 11. So you’re a professional drinker. Not a professional… a professional taster, professional taster. Oh yeah you spit it out. Yes. Yeah I won’t be doing any spitting. Oh my lord, look at that view! This is the best office ever. Look at that. The colours are amazing. All right then, come on then big boy. Wow. I’m kind of getting… oh, beautiful incredible dried fruit. Apricots, flowers, um… it’s a very cozy flavour. He keeps a great freshness in a Malbec. Oh it’s clean, it’s clean and it’s long. Next is a Tawny, 20 years old. Oh that is very cozy, that is a delicious… oh it’s changing in my mouth as well. A strong complexity. This one here is now… Look at, compare the colours. That aged in cask, and second aged in bottle. More young of course but uh with some a lot of fruit, some spicy, some chocolate. It’s radically different I mean this journey of port is a complete education. Like that for me when I feel those gentle tannins around here I’m salivating now. My time in Porto is very nearly up and I have really had the most incredible time here. It’s been full of food, drinks, and I think I’ve got time for just one more slightly unusual speciality. Said I have to try a local delicacy called francesinha, it’s kind of a sandwich. It sounds really wild it’s stuffed with steak, sausage, salami, cheese, eggs, a spicy tomato sauce. So let’s try it. Welcome to Santiago, my name is Thiago no "San". Thank you very much. You’re Thiago? Top man, okay, so I have heard a lot about this sandwich that you’re famous for. Francesinha. The story of the francesinha is like a Portuguese guy has been work in France and in France they have like the the toast, the croque monsier. Yeah. And he bring it up to here, to Portugal. Yeah. And the first place where they build the francesinha was done here in a restaurant Regaleira and the sandwich is just the toast with cheese ham and beef inside. Right, so like a steak. Yeah like a steak, cheese, ham, and a toast, like a very small very thin. And then with the passing of the years we start putting a little bit more ingredients inside, the bread and fresh sausage, the mortadella. Having fun with it. Fries and egg if you prefer. Listen, I trust you. You give me the version that you think I should have. Okay so we’ll have the francesinha Santiago with the fries by the side. Brilliant. Full experience. And what should I drink with it? Look, under the napkin is like a secret. A beer. Top man. Thank you. Thank you very much, cheers. So the anticipation of this sandwich, when I got on the plane to come here I thought it would all be seafood and uh kind of rustic pork dishes, but this dish is so famous that I have to try it it sounds completely bonkers. So, here we are. Francesinha and french fries. Oh my god. So, enjoy your meal. Okay look, look at that. So you’ve got a medium cooked steak, sausage, ham, cheese. That is a proper loaded, loaded sandwich. Look at the cheese! Gordon Bennett it’s bonkers. Mm! I mean it’s good. Look at that. It’s a beautifully, perfectly cooked steak. Medium. You’ve got the most gooey cheese ever. Smoky sausage, or ham. And then this chilli sauce. I mean look at. I think now is the time to attack the egg yolk. You want to kind of break it down so you keep its form look at that, okay I’m getting good at this now come and have a look. So that… I’m starting to eat it properly now you’ve got all the layers. It is honestly the most wild bonkers sandwich ever. It’s kind of fabulous. Very eccentric. And I think you should try it, it’s really good! Thank you very much my friend. Cheers! I will never forget this sandwich. So that was a brilliant short trip, filled me up with inspiration, I’ve learned a whole bunch of stuff that I didn’t know from food to little techniques of cooking to the world of port and so much more. I had no plan getting here and I have just bounced around getting filled up with love and passion and delicious food. I hope you enjoyed it, I hope you picked up some inspiration as I did, and until next time… enjoy.