My First Day in Italy: A Florence Walking Tour with Tommaso Melani of Stefano Bemer | Kirby Allison

🇮🇹 Join me, Kirby Allison, as I embark on an extraordinary journey through the heart of Florence, Italy. In this first episode of my Series exploring the world of quality, craftsmanship, and tradition in Italy, I’m treated to a guided tour of Florence by my dear friend Tommaso Melani, CEO of the renowned shoemaking firm Stefano Bemer. Together, we explore the rich history, unparalleled craftsmanship, and enduring traditions that make Florence a true gem of the Renaissance.

Our day begins at the picturesque Ponte Vecchio, basking in the early morning light. Tommaso shares fascinating stories about the city’s transformation over centuries, from its humble beginnings to becoming a beacon of art and culture under the Medici family.

We stroll towards the Uffizi Gallery and walk past the statue of David through the Piazza della Signoria, delving into Florence’s artistic legacy. Tommaso then treats us to one of his favorite Florentine rituals: an early morning cappuccino and Florentine breakfast at his favorite neighborhood cafe, Cibreo Cafe. Our morning finishes with a walk through one of Florence’s historic open markets before heading to Stefano Bemer.

In this episode, we learn about the history of Florence and Tommaso’s multi-generational connection to the city, which serves as the foundation of our next several days exploring the incredible world of quality, craftsmanship, and tradition in this magnificent city.

🔍 Learn More about Stefano Bemer
🔸IG: @stefanobemer
🔸Web: https://stefanobemer.com/
🔸Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpKj54DkUuvt0n20pZe42MQ

🔍Learn More about Cibreo Cafe
🔸IG: cibreo_firenze
🔸Web: https://www.cibreo.com/en/
🔸https://www.cibreo.com/en/cibreo-cafe/

🎞 Watch the Other Episodes in “Kirby’s Grand Italian Tour”:
Trailer: https://youtu.be/yexsLP8C_O8

🇮🇹 My First Day in Italy: A Florence Walking Tour with Tommaso Melani of Stefano Bemer | Kirby Allison
0:00 – Series Introduction
3:10 – Episode Introduction
5:18 – An Early Morning at Florence’s Iconic Ponte Vecchio
11:56 – Piazza della Signoria and Florence’s artistic history
14:56 – Cappuccino and breakfast at Cibreo Café
38:39 – A stroll through Florence Open Air Market

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[Music] [Music] I’m Kirby Allison and I consider myself immensely privileged to have traveled extensively while exploring the world of quality craftsmanship and tradition from the preeminent tailoring houses of London savvo and the Majestic Beauty of the Scottish Countryside on a traditional driven game shoot all the way to the rich tobacco fields and cigar factories of Cuba’s finest cigar producers today this journey of Discovery continues as I set out on a two we Grand Tour to explore the world of quality craftsmanship and tradition here in Italy Italy is of course a country steeped in history from the Roman Empire of ancient times through the Renaissance of the 15th and 16th centuries to the modern state that it is today its magnificent cities always managed to combine a deep respect for the past with a keen Outlook toward towards the future but more than anything else Italy is about the Italian people always stylish and well-dressed friendly and forthcoming [Music] [Applause] [Music] on this trip we shall be meeting up with a wonderful array of celebrated Italian Artisans and Crafts [Music] People from bespoke tailor and shoe makers to a single Vineyard wine maker and even bespoke pin [Applause] [Music] makers this is truly an experience not to be missed so I hope you’ll join me Kirby Allison as we set out for what promises to be a truly extraordinary Journey exploring the world of quality craftsmanship and tradition of this great country [Applause] [Music] hi I’m Kirby Allison and I’m tremendously excited to be here in Florence today outside the dwo the 15th century Cathedral Santa Maria Del on what is the first day of my tour through Italy exploring the world of quality craftsmanship and tradition here in Florence it is that last one tradition which is inescapable at every turn [Music] [Applause] there is also another fantastic reason as to why I’m so excited to be here today and that is because my very good friend Tomaso melani CEO of the iconic Florentine shoemaking firm Stefano Bimmer has agreed to serve as my guide to this incredible City Tomaso and his family have been at the heart of quality craftsmanship and tradition here in Florence for the better part of a 100 years this morning Tomaso has kindly agreed to meet me for an early walking tour of this incredible City before heading over to Stephano bim’s Flagship at so join me as we set out to explore the world of quality craftsmanship and tradition [Music] I’m so very happy we’re having the chance of having this early morning walk because we get to see the P without the crowd uh this bridge means so much to the city and to me personally the story of this building so if you look up the Coro vazan is probably the latest addition to this bridge which was started in the late 1200s originally was for butchers and fish uh actually Market um but over time uh it was transformed by Kimo de medish first and Ferdinando Primo after into really a gem for the city it was Ferdinando actually that established a rule that only goldsmiths could have their stores on the pon on the Pont because he didn’t like the stench when he was walking the quarter from the P Palace that was his residency to the P de which we’re going to walk by right just now and the beauty of of how this it’s a history of the city right it started as a not such a rich city it’s the Renaissance with Loreno deedi made it what it is today the greatest collection of Rea sance artwork is in the yiti and then Kim and Ferdinando completed this this gem before it was officially handed over to someone else you know besides the medi family but this is again the medish family on at at its best in creating a passage from home to work without having to step outside decorated by goldsmiths and uh and without having to you know feel the stench of of butchers it’s I think it’s it’s a beautiful story well it’s one of the most iconic you know locations of in all of Florence and of course so well known for the goldsmiths even today I mean now it’s jewelry it’s watch makers we’ve got ptech phip we’ve got uh Rolex um so many other incredible cuz technically they all sell jewels as well okay it can be just watches okay so it can’t be just watches still this day needs to be jecl and these firms I mean are they still owned by you know Florentine families absolutely yeah yeah everything uh the friends of mine Elisa picini is the P dealer and uh you know that they to bed they’re close they have a beautiful little Terrace that’s looking on the river and uh if you’re lucky enough to know them you you might get a coffee we have to come back for that but early morning uh without the thongs of tourists is really it’s precious beautiful it’s really precious and look at the morning sunlight off the uh off the river it’s gorgeous yeah great let’s go yeah [Music] imagine you’re Kimo de medish you’re ruler of the city you live at palop which is exceptional enough and you just decided that you didn’t want to live de anymore so now you’re commuting to work okay my walk it’s like feeling how positive must have felt in walking to work in the morning which I I I I love the idea well this is your walk into the city of the morning is no I make it such I I like to get to work a little earlier and have my walk in the city when the city is still empty I get my coffee and I have uh time to appreciate the city without the noise I mean what’s incredible to be is how long this has been here right I mean these goldsmiths you know this industry of of fine jewelry making is authentic to what it is that we are seeing today and the little houses that you see on top where where the Goldsmith would live so it was built over time this bridge was only a bridge when it was started in the 1300s as a defense of the city for the city but it developed it’s it’s been alive for centuries I love it well it’s incredible to be again just how this you know the tradition here in Florence is really at every turn uh and it has been like this in this city embedded in the city the beginning look at the little details like you know those knobs are probably there since the 1700s I I love it it’s uh that’s why again I like to live my city still as a tourist meaning to really look at details as like I didn’t know any of it and try to guess what it was I mean even the medieval uh you know fortification of the actual stores you know with this oak wood and the metal cuz back in the day this was security yeah that was security that’s incredible I love it [Music] Florence is a is a city of muted colors so we have the ulur the stone and what with the sunlight it becomes gold it’s gorgeous water reflector the sun reflecting off of the water the beautiful backdrop of the P you believe they used to swim in the river I can’t believe it I don’t think I’d take a swim there no me neither but it’s uh it’s a it’s a special thing it’s really a special thing [Music] [Applause] [Music] and so in my in my walk if I was Kimo de Med this is where I would get to work in the morning after crossing the bureaucracy of the city you fit and you this was built rebuilt by the medich over time to represent the Grandeur of Florence the solidity of the grand ducato but what I love about this P de laor never lost the name uh even when when it became a grand ducato are these two masterpieces that you you see so the David Donatello I love the David as a as a as a symbol right it’s uh it’s powerful the Slinger that wins over the the giant um and the copy of course of the other David that it’s the original inside the Academia I think the first time my wife saw that she cried it was so beautiful it is beautiful in many ways it’s beautiful for its Perfection but also for his its imperfections look how big the hand are if compared to the rest of the of the body uh the power is of the Slinger is in his end right there’s a lot of symbolism well I mean of course Florence being you know the center of the Renaissance has some of the most incredible art artistic works in the world incredible the the collection of the alone is mindblowing but one of the things I’m struck by is just the Beauty and the fact that these incredible works of art I mean truly masterpieces of you know of human existence right some of the best that have ever been created aren’t artifacts that were brought into the city but were created out of the city from the people that have lived and inhabited Florence for the better part of over Millennium the Medici and the Vatican have been fighting over Michelangelo and most of the Architects that worked in both cities to get their commission uh in the city it’s uh you are fighting over arst not art that’s right that’s right I mean incredible Wow Let’s go to half c yeah great [Music] [Applause] [Music] la [Music] oh wow look at this [Music] beautiful you want know what would you like well what’s traditional what’s proper cappuccino and Brios there we go cappuccino BOS okay good I mean what a spectacular place this isn’t it I love this corner of Florence uh so I grew up here so to me this this what’s his neighborhood called s ambroso okay ban s ambroso Santa CR is here like we were yesterday it’s a minute away so I really grew up here uh as a kid uh this was my playground I mean what was it like growing up in Florence I mean you know it’s always gets progressively more touristy and so I would imagine that you know whenever you were growing up I mean did the city you know retain a certain charm that maybe is not found today um the the city has obviously changed in many ways it’s been uh in a word that we use everywhere now gentrified in certain areas and it became a little more touristic uh but are still areas of the city that really resemble what they were 50 years ago uh this being one of them okay uh the the farmers market where I do the shopping in the morning know the butcher the Prest lady and the the mozarella de bua that comes from Naples every fresh every morning this was exactly the same when I was a teenager and then Santa croch has changed there’s more touristic shops I remember the city I mean p Santa CR with cars in it now it’s of course limited traffic which could be gas station we had a gas station P Santa CR right by the entrance of the church okay um I had my first street fight in P Santa CR really some memories memories absolutely um it was beautiful and um some neighborhoods haven’t changed in fact mhm it’s nice that Florence has retained that element of authenticity then because you know so many of the world cities uh you know the influx of people from other countries has pushed the locals out I mean in so many ways London I mean still retaining a lot of the Heritage shops you still today don’t find people living in St James’s the way that they maybe once did but I get the sense in Florence that you know that that texture that fabric right still has that hand that I imagine it has had for the better part of still here um leaving it in downtown that’s challenging there are no facilities there’s no big you know food stores cuz everything has become more commercial oriented uh fashion brands pushed everything out of the the main street of the city center the grocery stores are you know grew bigger but so they couldn’t find the space so I would say it is probably a little more challenging everything got more expensive but it’s happening everywhere I mean I spent my other half of the here in New York and New York is different from what I I I remember 20 years ago absolutely areas of the city that you know were simply cool and affordable at the time now you can touch them yeah what are some of the memories that as you kind of look back on your life in Florence having the perspective of now living in New York you remember finally the it’s funny because living abroad gave me perspective over things in the city that I took for granted my entire life um stuff that I thought I didn’t need or love as much they it turned out that I I really appreciate pasta and espresso correct even like sitting here in the morning before going to the office it’s such a privilege I mean that that the equivalent would be what Starbucks the United States sometimes it’s U you know with my mobile app you know after I drop the kids off of it it’s crazy right so slower life absolutely I mean I my twice a week this is what I do on a Saturday afternoon and normally on a Wednesday twice a week I come I park my car early in the morning I go my for a walk in in the city then I come to the farmers market one of the first ones to get in so I choose my stuff they know me they know what I like um I I would like to introduce Julio to Kirby uh Julio is the owner of Cho son of Fabio one of the the one of the the chef in town from Florence that made original peasant if I want to say food famous the name of the food chib is a sauce is a meat sauce that it’s made with the remains of the butchering of the chicken and oral and when I first I was actually it was his father that with my mother they brought me like a little piece of bread with meat sauce I’m a meat guy so I but at the time I was a you know a 10y old okay probably not younger probably 8y old and they brought this thing and my mom says you have to try it so I tried it and this fantastic delicious and then they told me what goes in it but at that point you know you can’t say I don’t like it it’s too late yeah so I I owe his father like my pretty much my appreciation for real Tusk and fluent in food he brought it to a different level of of of refinement but but most of all appreciation yeah I must uh take your details for a booking this week then for dinner please please you must I’m ready to Ser the bit Bo right now if you it’s been it’s been cooking all night right you know I would say yes right wow look at this I mean again one of the things I love is the authenticity here I mean how long has his family been running this shop in this location second generation Fabio started it uh with the first restaurant which is across the street chibo and then he had ideas at the chibo Cafe Del which is a beautiful concert it was a club so you have to be a member to to be part of it and it’s open lunch and dinner lunch is communal tables and dinner there’s a show there’s a cultural show normally theater and you have to attend the entire thing to have dinner you cannot have dinner and live it’s a Cultural Association and they still do this across still do it he did like CH where they make this incredible ravioli the the the stuff that they make foodwise is is perfect well it’s hard to believe that this space we’re in right now hasn’t existed exactly as it is for a century I mean the wood paneling oh right I mean the all red velvet you can’t build anything in Florence right INF fluence is what it is outside of the city center maybe but you can build a thing in fluence so upgrading renovating it’s always been the case the same thing that we did at Stefan it’s an old chapel we had we can upgrade it but we cannot raise it that’s it so I had a comment one day on I I think I posted something like this on Instagram and someone commented like you know you live a very glamorous life and I replied say the opposite this is very unglamorous this is what is normal to me right it is it is a privilege to live such a normal normal sea uh but it’s very unglamorous if you’re born in Florence it’s delicious so this is a traditional Florentine breakfast a nice I don’t have it every morning obviously otherwise i’ would be twice as big but but yeah well I normally indulge in the capucino that’s that’s my sweet treat in the morning so talk to me a little bit about the Coffee Culture I mean I know that the Italians are very particular about the way they take coffee it also depends where right okay different ways well here in Florence different method in Florence we’re more flexible um I would say you can still order cappuccino until noon and noon okay other places they would tell you probably 10 is the cut out line definitely not after lunch absolutely never after dinner but but we bent we bent I I can I hear it after dinner asking for cappuccino and I see it served so we like indulge you we like to say that we’re strict about it but not really as strict as we should yeah so cappuccino would be traditionally it’s breakfast it’s breakfast capuco is breakfast a cup of milk is the amount of milk correct it’s the amount of milk you can have a macato okay which is espresso with a little bit a third of of a quantity of milk same quantity of coffee um I had to actually teach the local bar in in coffee shop in New York where I go have my my my afternoon thing to make mem at the macato like I the way I like it exactly um because otherwise the cortado they normally make it’s it’s it’s a it’s our cappuccino and and the cappuccino back in the States is three times as big so it’s it’s a meal yeah absolutely yeah people that order cappuccinos you know from Starbucks or lattes oh it’s a v right I mean I I I often question whether or not they realize that it’s basically a gigantic cup of hot milk how how do you I mean for one it can’t be healthy and second is how does one drink that in the morning for years so for me I order coffee and I I mean the the espresso right so there’s no other way in Florence to get coffee so you would just ask for a coffee and in the states I would get into into a coffee place and I would ask for a coffee and that would give me the obviously the the the drip and now I know better in the mean that’s for espresso um it’s it’s funny how culturally again coffee in the states unless you as for an espresso is the drip is a drip coffee that’s right and here if you ask for a drip coffee they can’t make it it’s a cafe Americano which is deled espresso correct we don’t we don’t want to talk about yeah well back to Growing Up in Florence I mean again one of the things I’m struck by is how the city this is really the first time I’ve spent any meaningful amount of time in Florence but having traveled to other places you know yes you have these you know really touristic locations and then the Tanto which we walked across you know the you know the dwo which I saw earlier or where we were in front of the city hall butan yes it’s become touristic but it still retains that historic and authentic facade I mean it’s been unchanged although there’s more people and there might be street cars and Street vendors you know the panto and the stores in the panto are exactly today as they were 100 200 years ago FL is is different things is a is a museum itself um and therefore it’s kept by the city hall as such so changing things uh influence anything even if you want to change the color or the facade of a building you need to get a permit from the city hall um and they will never give you permit to change it so which is nice in anyways I’m sure it’s frustrating recently I’m just buying a new space in San niolo to uh dedicate one Workshop only to the production of our highest ready to wear line the Trad and it’s a corner and and originally the building had I mean barns so every opening of the ground floor was for horses right so you but then over the years has been closed up so now I can apply to reopen the windows but I need a permit from the city hall to reopen it and it’s a procedure would take me like two or 3 months only to get a permission to reopen a door that was there to begin with so nothing in Florence is is is possible without the permit and I would say like it’s frustrating at times cuz maybe you have nice ideas that would make the city nicer but on an average you have to presume that people do stupid things yeah absolutely so if we don’t want the next building to be purple then you you need to delegate someone that knows better yeah we see this in St James’s right in London where you get this beautiful Street of some of the most you know incredible classical architecture ever constructed Regency style buildings and then you have this you know monolith you know 1970s brutalist office building that you know you look at you you question how anyone ever allowed this to be built and the problem is is now that it’s built it’s there it’s there there’s nothing you can do we have areas outside of the of the main viali that have been developed in the 60s and 70s and obviously back back then you you were not looking at the suburbs as something that one day will be one with the city right so there was no control over the aesthetic of some areas uh and now we have them yeah nothing you can do absolutely so back to growing up you know in Florence I mean your family has been here you know probably for as long as you can remember but I did um 23 and me what is it and uh turns out a 98% Tuscan there we go H so it’s was my God it’s been here for longer than you know than ancestry.com can you know draw the the family tree longer than I know incredible but your family so talk to me a little bit about your family because I know that I mean that they’ve been in many ways at the center of quality craftsmanship and tradition you know here and you know give me a little bit of just kind of background of you know how the family got started I say the generation I I know the generations I’ve met my great-grandfather was a leather artisan and I had a a workshop in Viet C downtown near the P republ books boxes that kind of stuff uh that’s how my grandfather learned the craft and uh had the idea of using the craft as a tool to build squalo uh as a as a as a give back to the community to tr Orphans of World War II to the leather making to earn living eventually and then created a company hired them and that’s the story of my family in the leather industry started with the intuition that my grandfather had that after World War II everyone should have done something for the city and he that that’s what he knew what to do the second world war was devastating oh my god there was nothing I mean that in in in a sense it’s been like a wildfire then after that everything’s been growing uh fast but there was nothing left of the of the economy so the the my mother’s side of the family it’s uh it’s remained on the leather business um my father’s side of the family they’re lawyers um so different I I would have been a good lawyer probably but I was not as fascinated by being a lawyer as as being uh in and Crea accounting experience too so in some way my my background is business school so I’m I’m I’m technically a CPA an auditor maternal side of the family’s pulled you pulled you over yeah I and and and I’m grateful for that because it gave me the chance to be more creative in what I do but you grew up around this leather School two things I grew up at the leather School squ quo and my mother was was running the the art gallery my grandfather had an art gallery so my mother was was managing ing um the art gallery so it was a fascinating Bland of two things on one side the artisanal part of the business and on the other side I was in contact with painters and sculptures and it was the artistic part of our family that was uh very very alive at the time and I guess I you know the combination of the two shaped who I am and what how I see the world it’s it’s a creative effort regardless whether you’re making a product or creating a painting you’re still giving birth to an idea yeah what’s interesting about Sho making is that and and suit making for that matter is the combination of the craftsmanship and the artisanship and that you actually have to make something by hand with the artistic side of sculpture it has to be proportioned balanced and beautiful at the end of day is Art and you know the more that I you know travel and meet with shoemakers and meet suit makers and the more that I really dive into this the more I realize how those two objectives are often in competition or compete with one another you know the function the functional aesthetic of making something that is well fitting and comfortable with something that is beautiful and artistic so but my grandfather as a hobby was a painter himself and many of the painters that he was familiar with and friends with because of the art gallery we had them as guest in his in my grandfather’s personal studio and at home and many to me were like uncles right it’s like it it was like knowing them since I was born yeah and they taught me how to look at things everyone had different sense of aesthetic they taught me how to really see things through their own eyes and I I did learn that reality is the narrative that we tell ourselves um through our perception of things and the more you train your perception Yeah the more beautiful and different and uh and Rich yeah your vision of reality your Narrative of reality becomes yeah well this is I think what is in many ways one of the uh virtues of the bespoke process is that you know anyone that falls in love with clothing and the bespoke process really commits themselves to the journey and it is through that Journey that one does this exact thing of training their eye to understand you know what the proper proportions and Aesthetics are uh and then attuning you know their senses to that quality and that craftsmanship very much and it’s as you say it’s a process meaning you can’t get it right the first time around if you commit to a bespoke journey you need to understand that it’s not just the tailor or the Shoemaker that it’s learning what you like but it’s you learning what you like in the meantime AB absolutely that’s the most important part it is an exchange it’s not a service that it’s render is an exchange of experience and information yeah I mean it’s just fascinating to me you know I mean here you are someone that’s lived in Florence you know your entire life you’re someone that grew up in the city you grew up um you know as a multi-generational kind of inhabitant in the city your parents grew up your grandparents grew up here you know what is it like living in Florence I mean what is it that whenever you come back to visit now that you live or spend half your time in New York that you look forward to doing and that is a part of you know a part of what it is that you only find here for many many years I I and I I still say I’m not attached to Florence meaning I love it I’m not emotionally bonded with the city I could live anywhere and I’ve been saying so since I was 20 okay and I’ve been traveling a lot and I’ve been living abroad um the unique combination of elements that I can find in Florence is anyways unbeatable it’s again for the life I live what I love uh again I’m I’m a cyclist so for me the countryside nearby is the wine country is beautiful I mean it’s it’s my T oh my God it’s a it’s my happy place go on those three four hours trips and and uh it’s beautiful it’s Beauty everywhere you look in every direction um I love the the Seas and I have a beach house it’s an hour drive uh I’m a wine lover and the wine country the wine scene here is very active I’m a meat guy Florence is known for obviously his his steak and not just his steak we have you know hunting season and it’s the Wild boore and in the winter is is delicious um pris um arti chokes are my ad addiction and I it comes November new crush and AR chokes I’m I’m I’m good for like six months I can go on forever so the combination of all these things uh makes it impossible to beat I love Paris I love London I have a great time in New York um I’ve been in San Francisco more than I wanted uh I like La um I wouldn’t settle anywhere else only because this is the life I like to live I cannot live it full-time I’m so I miss the energy of the bigger cities uh but this will always be home yeah ah well what a beautiful home it is and thank you for sharing a little bit of that with me today over a beautiful cappuccino proper cappuccino proper Florentine breakfast absolutely and work beautiful restaurant uh and again it’s been a I mean we got an early start for the walking tour and you know we saw howth how quickly things got busy yeah um but um no I’m glad we get we got to do it in the morning because you get to see what I see so otherwise it’s diluted and noisy uh when when it’s just Florence it’s it’s it’s incredible yeah wel Tomas thank you let’s go to work [Music] yeah for [Music]