Hearty Alpine Fare: Tartiflette and Paniscia (Red Wine Risotto with Beans)

Test cook Becky Hays makes host Bridget Lancaster a hearty Tartiflette. Tasting expert Jack Bishop talks all about mushrooms. Bridget makes host Julia Collin Davison Paniscia (Red Wine Risotto with Beans).

Get our Tartiflette recipe: https://cooks.io/3TZ2t0j
Get our Paniscia recipe: https://cooks.io/4aXeb1q

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– [Narrator] Today on “America’s Test Kitchen,” Becky makes Bridget hearty tartiflette, Jack talks all about mushrooms, and Bridget and Julia make paniscia. It’s all coming up right here on “America’s Test Kitchen.” – I am not much of a skier, but I do love a good après ski. The food, the beverages, oh, so tasty. And I’m really excited because Becky’s here and she’s got what might be the apex of all après ski recipes straight from the French Alps, it’s tartiflette.

– Oh, this is such a good one, Bridget. We’re gonna combine potatoes, wine, bacon, cream, and lots and lots of cheese. – All the food groups wrapped into one dish. – So good and it’s pretty easy too. So let’s start with the potatoes. – Okay. – [Becky] Tartiflette is typically made

With a moderately waxy potato, so we’re choosing Yukon Golds. – [Bridget] Okay, great. – [Becky] I’m just going to cut them into quarter-inch half moons. Okay, I’ve got one and three quarter pounds of potatoes here. And I have a steamer basket going, and the water is just coming up to a boil.

There is water just beneath the bottom of that steamer basket. – [Bridget] Okay. – We’re gonna steam the potatoes rather than boil them so they won’t be waterlogged. – Okay. – And we’ll put them in here for about 17 minutes. They’ll be cooking more in the casserole,

So we just want them until a paring knife just meets a little bit of resistance to them. – [Bridget] Okay. – [Becky] They’re just done. All right, so we’ll let this go 15 to 17 minutes and then we’ll come back. – [Bridget] Great. – Okay, it’s been about 15 minutes.

Let’s take a peek at the potatoes. They look good. I’m just gonna check them with a paring knife. And yeah, the pairing knife goes in just… I can feel they have a little bit longer to go, but that’s exactly what I want. – Okay. – [Becky] Turn that heat off.

Now, I’m gonna take the potatoes out. I’m just gonna pull them out onto a plate here so they can cool off a little bit. – [Bridget] Okay. – We’re gonna let them cool down for about 10 minutes. And while they cool, we’ll start working on the next component which is some bacon.

– I’ve been standing guard. (Becky laughs) – Yeah, that’s right. Would you turn on the heat to medium for me there? – [Bridget] Gladly. – I have six slices of thick cut bacon cut into half inch pieces, and we’re just gonna cook these up until they get nice and chewy crispy.

That’ll take about five minutes. All right, it’s five minutes and we can smell that delicious bacon. So I have a paper towel-lined plate. We’ll set these aside, we’ll come back to these later. – Okay. – Now, I wanna leave about two tablespoons of bacon fat in the skillet.

I’m just gonna spoon a little bit off. All right, that looks good. – [Bridget] Great. – Now over medium heat, if you wanna turn the heat back on, – You got it. – I’ve got one onion that’s chopped up fine. We’ll put that onion into that delicious bacon fat

And add a half teaspoon of salt. – [Bridget] Great. – They’re gonna get nice and soft and a little bit brown. That’s gonna take about seven minutes. All right, more good smells. It’s been about seven minutes, so I’m going to add two and a half teaspoons of fresh thyme.

I’m adding two cloves of minced garlic, and we’ll just cook this for about two minutes until it gets nice and aromatic. All right, it’s been two minutes. I’m really starting to smell all those great smells again. – It is bacon, onion, thyme, garlic, come on. – I know, let’s go. (chuckles)

Now, I have half a cup of dry white wine. And this is a really rich dish, so it’s nice to have the acidity in there to kind of cut through all of that. So we want this to reduce by about half. It’s gonna take about two minutes. – [Bridget] Okay.

– All right, it’s been about two minutes. You can see that wine is reducing down. Let’s kill the heat. That part is done. Thank you. – You bet. – And now, I have half a cup of heavy cream. And not all recipes call for cream,

But I mean a little cream and potatoes, you can’t go wrong. – All recipes, period, should call for cream. – [Becky] I agree, Bridget, I agree. So half a cup of the cream, a quarter teaspoon of pepper, and three quarter teaspoon of salt. – [Bridget] Okay.

– So now, let’s take our potatoes and let’s mix them up with this delicious mixture that we’ve made. So gently stir them. All right, I think these potatoes are pretty happy now. They’re coated in this delicious mixture. All right, so I have an eight by eight baking dish

And I sprayed it with a little vegetable oil spray, – [Bridget] Great. – so nothing will stick. I’m gonna put half of the mixture into the dish. – [Bridget] And I’ll take the other half out to my car. – Sure. – Okay. (laughing continues) – Mama needs a snack on her way home. – All right, and here’s that bacon that we cooked. I’m gonna add half of the bacon, just sprinkle that over the top. Now, the rest of the potatoes. All right, that’s looking pretty good, Bridget. – [Bridget] We’re a few blocks past pretty good. – Here comes the rest of that bacon. Now, just like that would be good enough, but we’re not stopping there. It’s time for the cheese. We’re gonna use one of my absolute favorite cheeses. It’s called Harbison, – Okay. – and it’s amazing. It’s nutty, it’s milky, super creamy. – [Bridget] Super creamy.

– So I want to have the cheese horizontally here. – [Bridget] Good ’cause there’s two of us. – [Becky] That’s right, four ounces each. – [Bridget] Oh my gosh. – [Becky] This is a gooey one. And this is nice and right. – [Bridget] Oh, yes. – [Becky] Now, I’m gonna cut this

Into three quarter inch pieces. It’s kind of good to go just a couple of cuts each direction. And now this is gooey as you can see. We want to arrange the cheese rind side up on the casserole. So I’m just gonna use a bench scraper here,

Kind of dot it over the casserole pieces like that. – [Bridget] You are kidding me. – I’m not messing around today, Bridget. We’ve had a long day on the slopes. Yeah, so the entire wheel of cheese is gonna go on top here. – It’s the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen. – That looks pretty good to me, Bridget. All we need to do now is put it in a 400-degree oven on the middle rack for about 20 minutes, and then we’re in business. (Bridget gasps) – [Bridget] Yes. – Thank you. Ooh. (Bridget gasps) – [Becky] Ooh. (Bridget exhales)

– [Becky] It’s all bubbly, it’s brown. All right, that looks amazing. We’re gonna let it cool just 10 minutes. In 10 minutes, we’re diving into that thing big time. All right, the time has come. It’s been 10 minutes, (Bridget laughs) so let’s do it. – [Bridget] I’m just so happy right now. – [Becky] Yeah. – [Bridget] What?

– [Becky] Now, if the bacon and the cheese and the cream wasn’t enough, we’re gonna just add a little creme fraîche on the top here. What do you think? – [Bridget] Sure, why not? (Becky laughs) – [Becky] That was easy. – [Bridget] I’ve got some butter in my purse.

Hang on just a second. (Becky laughs) – [Becky] All right, bon appetit, my friend. – [Bridget] Thank you. – That’s what I’m doing. I’m getting like every little bit with a little bit of the creme fraîche on there. Yeah, get it all together. (chuckles) You okay? Yeah. (laughs)

– None of the ingredients were out of reach. They’re all very simple, beautiful cheese, the potatoes, the bacon, the onion, the cream, the wine, but it’s a masterpiece. – That’s the word. – This is all I’ve ever really wanted. – [Becky] Yeah. (Becky laughs) – I’m in love

And I don’t care who knows it. – [Becky] Oh, I’ve made you so happy, Bridget. It makes me really happy. (giggles) – Becky, I can’t thank you enough for introducing me to this wondrous dish. – It’s really been my pleasure. And you’re gonna wanna make this beautiful tartiflette at home for yourself.

– And it starts by steaming Yukon Gold potatoes with their skins on, cook thick cut bacon to infuse the dish with lots of smoky flavor, and top with a creamy Camembert or Taleggio or Becky’s favorite, Harbison cheese. Don’t forget to bake it until it’s bubbling and creamy and golden brown and, yes, okay.

So from “America’s Test Kitchen,” the ultimate in après ski dining, I’m gonna call it breakfast, it’s tartiflette. (giggles) I’m gonna call it lunch too. – Oh, yeah. – Looking for kitchen inspiration on the go? – [Julia] Check out the “America’s Test Kitchen” mobile app. – [Bridget] Cook with confidence and take our recipes,

Reviews, and more wherever you go. – [Julia] Access thousands of fail-proof recipes, equipment reviews, how-to videos, and full episodes of our TV shows. – With smart searching, favorites, and other tools, it’s your ultimate kitchen companion. – [Julia] Download the “America’s Test Kitchen” mobile app today. – One of the secrets of being a great cook is being a great shopper. And so, when I’m in the supermarket, I’m that guy willing to go there. And when it comes to mushrooms, the most important characteristic is how they smell. So you’re gonna see me (sniffing).

Yeah, that’s what I do in the supermarket aisle, and I get some looks. The reason I’m doing this is not just ’cause it’s a little bit funny, but you can actually smell the difference between a good mushroom and a not-so good mushroom. They should be earthy and sweet.

And if you get any sour or fishy notes, and you often will, it’s a sign that the mushroom is beginning to go off. You also wanna make sure that there are no dry or discolored parts of the mushroom. You can do that by just looking. When you get your mushrooms home,

Don’t tie them up into a plastic bag, you know? You wanna buy them loose so you can smell them, but then keep that bag open in the refrigerator so that the ethylene gas that they release can escape and will slow down the rotting process, ’cause mushrooms are really delicate

And they’re not gonna last all that long, but they will last a little longer if you keep the bag open. Now, there are a lot of beautiful mushrooms on the table. I want tell you about each one of them and how I cook with them at home.

So the most boring and the basic is the button mushroom. They’re kind of an okay texture, not much flavor, but they’re fine. I actually think the cremini are a step up. They’ve got an earthier flavor. These are actually small portobellos and are kind of my default basic house mushroom

When you come to the Bishop household. Next up, we’ve got the big boys. These are the portobellos. You don’t need to buy them with the stems ’cause you’re just gonna get rid of them. So if you just see caps, that’s fine. Probably the most important thing about the portobellos

Is when you get home, you can’t wash them. Now, despite what a lot of sources say, you can wash a button mushroom or a cremini mushroom. But mushrooms with a lot of exposed gills, and you’re gonna see here, there’s a lot of gills on this mushroom,

It’s going to soak up so much water. So instead, you really wanna take a pastry brush, kind of just brush the dirt off. You’ll be fine. If you want to get a damp paper towel, you can certainly do that. But don’t wash the portobellos. Same thing goes with the shiitakes.

So these also have a lot of gills and will soak up water. And so, they’re better just cleaned with a paper towel. They’re usually very clean and not as dirty as the portobellos. You’re gonna get rid of the stems here. They’re really very tough and woody. And the caps,

You wanna make sure that they’re nice and thick, and this little curl is a sign of freshness. Now, let me tell you a little bit about some of the more unusual and exciting mushrooms here on the table. Upfront, we have oyster mushrooms. And as the name implies,

They’re actually a little bit briny and super savory. Back here, these are king oyster mushrooms. Yeah, they get their name ’cause they’re super big. The texture is amazing. They are the best mushroom as a centerpiece for a vegetarian meal. Morels, these are actually fresh morels.

Now they’re a little bit spongy, a little bit nutty. I love them. Little critters like to hide in them, so you want to kind of go like this, shake them out and make sure that there’s nobody living in there. Nobody’s home, so that’s a good thing. Over here we’ve got maitake,

Also known as hen-of-the-woods. They have a very feathery light texture, a little bit of a smoky flavor. They’re lovely sauteed. Sauteing is also what you want to do, and preferably with some good butter with the chanterelles. Now, the chanterelles have a bit of fruitiness to them that just is delightful. Keep it simple.

The mushrooms are the star there. Upfront, we have the enoki. Now, these have a crisp texture and a very mild flavor. I actually think that they don’t need to be cooked. I use them instead of croutons as a garnish in hot soup. And the warmth of the soup is gonna soften them up

Just the right amount. Finally, and certainly not least, we’ve got the woodier mushrooms. These are great in a stir fry because they’re really tough in a good way, a little rubbery. They’ve got real texture to them and a lovely nutty flavor. The wonderful world of mushrooms,

Don’t be afraid to stick your nose in when you’re at the supermarket. – At “America’s Test Kitchen,” recipe development is serious business. – Head over to americastestkitchen.com and unlock 14,000 expert developed recipes and 8,000 unbiased product reviews, all rigorously tested by our team. – Access every episode of every season

Of your favorite cooking shows. That’s 38 seasons of inspiration. – And with the ATK members app, you’ll have 30 years of expertise at your fingertips, anywhere, anytime. Join us and become a smarter cook. – Start your free all-access trial membership at americastestkitchen.com today. – Today, Bridget is gonna cook something for me that I’ve never eaten before. It’s a dish from northern Italy called paniscia, and it’s essentially rice and beans, right, Bridget? – It is. Well, it’s more like as if minestrone and risotto had a baby. – Ooh. – Yeah, and that baby was really good. – I’m in. – This is such a fantastic dish. I have to say, this is my new favorite risotto, and I love risotto from all over Italy. This one is really so special because it uses the ingredients from the area, which is the Piedmont region. So we’re gonna start with our base.

So I’ve got two tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil heating over medium heat until it’s just shimmering, and it’s just about there. Now, this is laced with a couple of pork products. – That’s why you like it. (both laughs) – Exactly. The first one is pancetta, which is salt-cured pork belly.

It’s delicious, a little bit sweet. And it’s gonna render into the oil here and give its flavor to the dish. And it just really is such a special kind of meat. I love it. So this is about three minutes until we start to see the pancetta look a little crisp. All right?

(humming) Let me show you what we’re working with here. Our pancetta has some nice brown color. – [Julia] Goodness. – Gorgeous. – Sizzling. – It’s sizzling. You got that peppery smell in there too. – Mm-hmm. – All right, so our minestrone vegetables are going in. I have one onion that I’ve chopped fine,

I’ve got one carrot, also chopped fine, and a celery rib chopped fine. Now, all of these are chopped fine because we want them really to be indistinguishable from the size of the rice later on. We want all of this to kind of meld together. – [Julia] Makes sense.

– I do wanna season our mixture. I’ve got a half a a teaspoon of salt and quarter teaspoon of black pepper. There we go. To season the vegetables, we’re building kind of a minestrone base for our risotto at this point. So I’m gonna let this go again over medium heat

Until the vegetables are just nice and soft, and that’s gonna take anywhere between five to seven minutes. Come over while we talk salami. – More pork. – More pork, yes. (Julia giggles) This is a Genoa salami. This is the kind that you find in the fancy cheese department,

Not the deli stuff, but you can use that. This is a nine-inch stick. I need about six ounces. So I’m gonna use about two-thirds there. That looks like two-thirds, does it? – [Julia] Yup. – [Bridget] I wanna cut this in two quarter-inch pieces. So piece like this,

I would cut lengthwise, and then right across. – So it’s basically the same size as the vegetables in the pot. – Yeah, just maybe a little bit bigger. This is one of the stars of the show, so we’re gonna highlight that. So I’m gonna finish cutting this. Keep an eye on those.

Again, I’d say it probably has about three more minutes left. – [Julia] Okie-doke. – [Bridget] These look great. The vegetables are nice and soft. – [Julia] Mm-hmm. – So we’re really gonna crank up some flavor here. I’ve got six cloves of minced garlic. – [Julia] Not a small amount. – [Bridget] No, no.

We’re gonna let this go until it’s fragrant, about 30 seconds or less. Lovely, can smell it. – Mm-hmm. – Smelling great. So in goes star of the show, the risotto. This is Arborio rice, one and a half cups. And the town of Arborio is actually in Piedmont. – I never knew that.

– So this is rice coming home here. So before I let that go too far, I’m gonna put in our salami, again, six ounces. There’s a lot of flavor packed in here. But what I’m doing now is I’m making sure to toss the rice in the oil. As you said, the fat from the salami is going start to render out too. And we’re looking for the edges of the rice to get a little translucent.

That should only take about three minutes. And this is really to ready the rice to accept the liquid that it’s coming up. – [Julia] All right. – It’s been a few minutes here. Let’s check on the rice. Again, we’re looking for some translucency right around the edges. – [Julia] Mm-hmm.

– All right, are you ready for some big flavor? – Yup. – [Bridget] Here’s one of the departures from some of the risotto I’m sure that you’ve had, and that is tomato paste. Two tablespoons of tomato paste. And I’m just going to cook this

Until the paste has lost some of its raw flavor. That’s just about a minute. All right. – I like the ingredient you have next. – It’s a cup of Hawaiian Punch. I’ve got cup of dry red wine from the Piedmont region. I’m gonna stir this. (exclaims) And that wine is going to start to reduce and be absorbed by the rice, and that’s gonna take about three minutes. Oh, look at that. The wine is all absorbed into the rice. (Julia exclaims) I know.

– [Julia] The smell is heavenly. – And that rice is starting to soften. But now we’re gonna use that technique we use a lot with different risottos, and that’s where we front load the recipe with a a lot of the liquid. So this is four cups. – [Julia] Nice.

– Four cups of chicken broth. I’m gonna give it a stir here. Now, put a lid on it. – [Julia] I gotcha. – [Bridget] Thank you. And we’re gonna let this simmer for 10 minutes. And of course, the risotto is not gonna be done at that point,

But by front loading all this liquid in here, as you know, it just allows all the rice to absorb liquid evenly, and we don’t have to worry about stirring it constantly. So all it needs at this point is about 10 minutes. And halfway through, I’ll go in and give it a stir.

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So are you ready to become the best cook you know? Subscribe to Cook’s Illustrated Magazine at cooksillustrated.com today. – I’m not gonna open the lid, not yet. Still has a couple minutes left to go, but I’m gonna prep the next ingredient to go in, and that is cabbage. – Cabbage.

– We’re back to minestrone here. – I did not see that coming. – You did not see that coming, exactly. This is just going to add a lovely green, crisp counterpoint. So I’m gonna cut this cabbage into half-inch pieces. What we’re looking for is four cups of prepped cabbage here,

Just about half-inch pieces. – [Julia] Okie-doke. – Julia, please, if you would open the lid. You’ve been dying to do it. – No. (Julia exclaims) – Ya ya yada. – Oh my goodness, Bridget. That smells delicious. – [Bridget] Isn’t that incredible? – [Julia] Oh goodness. – Again, that was 10 minutes. Rice has started to absorb some of that liquid in there, but it’s softly soupy at this point. We’re not done. So I’m gonna go ahead

And add the four cups of chopped cabbage. So I’m just tossing this cabbage right in there, gently folding it in. And if you could put the lid back on for me. We’re gonna let this go another six, maybe nine minutes until most of that liquid has been absorbed by the rice.

The cabbage is gonna get nice and soft, and we’re not even done yet. Let’s take a look and see what’s going on here. Oh, yeah. – [Julia] Oh. (giggles) – That was just six minutes, and you can see the cabbage has softened and the rice really has absorbed all of that liquid.

You can see the bottom of the pan is just about dry when I scooch away the food. All right, so now, another Piedmont region ingredient that they often use is borlotti beans or cranberry beans. They’re great. And if we were making a minestrone with dried beans, that might be an option for it.

It’s kind of hard to find canned cranberry beans. So we’re going with pinto beans, which have a similar color. They have a nice creamy texture. This is one 15 ounce can of pinto beans that we’ve rinsed. And so this is the beans, the cabbage, the rice.

And at this point, I’m going to add some water in here. There’s tons of flavor in there. – [Julia] Yes, there is. – We don’t need to add any more chicken broth. This is one cup of hot water, just adding at this point to loosen the mixture.

I’m gonna stir it constantly for about three minutes until it’s all nice and creamy. A few minutes of stirring, look at how creamy that’s looking. (exclaims) I think we’re done at this point. Few more additions later on, but for now, put a lid on it please. – [Julia] Okie-doke.

– I’m gonna let this sit for about five minutes. Rice is gonna continue to absorb some of that liquid in there and it’s just all the flavors are gonna melt together. It’s almost tasting time. – [Julia] Oh, there we go. – So a couple of finishes here. One, it’s pretty traditional,

It’s two tablespoons of unsalted butter, and this is a half cup of grated Parmesan. I would use something like a Parmigiano Reggiano because it’s fancy and we’re special. And this was a departure to adding the cheese. There’s not a lot of cheese added to this, but we found that that little bit

Just really brought it all together, and my gosh, we’re worth it. All right, so that butter is all melted in there. Doesn’t that look delightful now? It’s looking at a little thick. So I have a bit more hot water here, you can add up to a cup more of hot water. I’m just gonna add a little bit at a time

Just to loosen up the risotto. All right, this is looking gorgeous and it will continue to set up. All right, to finish off, a little seasoning. Anytime you have long cooked things, a little bit of brightness at the end is great. This is two teaspoons of red wine vinegar. – [Julia] Oh, nice.

– Just adding that in to perk things up. All right, now I am going to taste it because I can. (Julia laughs) – Does it pass? – It passes. All right, so let me dole this out here. – [Julia] I am so excited to try this. I’ve never tasted anything like this before.

Risotto with beans and cabbage, two types of pork. – [Bridget] And your favorite ingredient, – [Julia] Mm-hmm. – [Bridget] red wine. – [Julia] Yup. All right, one final flourish, Italian parsley. – [Julia] Flat-leaf parsley, of course. – [Bridget] Just a little bit right over the top.

– [Julia] Bridget, I have never been so excited to eat a bowl of risotto in my life. (Bridget laughs) – It keeps coming and coming. – There are so many layers of flavor. You know, I got the vinegar. – [Julia] And the butter. The pancetta.

– [Bridget] And then the wine, and then the salami. – [Julia] Mm-hmm. Wow. – But I love the creamy beans with the rice. – Mm-hmm. – Beans and rice, perfect anytime. They’re gorgeous here. (exclaims) – This is delicious. You’d think it would have an overwhelmingly rich flavor

That would really coat your mouth, it doesn’t. The vinegar and the wine really cut right through it. – Yeah, that wine’s a super ingredient. – It is, I agree. With every bite, I’m tasting something different. I love this, Bridget. – This is warm in a bowl. – Goodness, Bridget.

Thank you for showing me how to make this. This is delicious. – It was great making with you. – If you wanna make this classic Piedmont dish, make a flavorful broth with pancetta, vegetables, and salami. Cook their rice for 10 minutes before adding the beans

And let the dish sit off heat before adding the cheese. From “America’s Test Kitchen,” a Piedmont classic, paniscia. You can get this recipe and all the recipes from this season along with select episodes and our product reviews at our website, americastestkitchen.com/tv. – I know. – We hope you enjoyed this video as much as we enjoyed making it. – Don’t forget to hit that like button and subscribe to our channel. And if you’re ready to take your cooking to the next level, head over to americastestkitchen.com and get a free all-access trial membership.

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