In Wine Lies The Truth
“Un pasto senza vino é come una giornata senza sole”; A day without wine is like a day without sun. In Italy this phrase is common and perfectly portrays the a culture that permeates all of society. But what is so extraordinary about wine, and why is it such an important part of the Italian culture? To answer these questions we have to go back about 800 years B.C. starting in Etruria which is today known as the Italian regions Toscana and Umbria.
The etruscans of olden days were highly advanced in regards to technology. In fact so advanced that they had built aqueducts, sewer channels and road networks – concepts unknown to neighboring civilizations. And most precious among their inventions, were the process of winemaking. Wine was not only perceived as a festive, but also as an important source of nutrition, that kept the etruscans free from infections and other ailments. From the etruscans, the process of winemaking made its way into the roman empire. And from there, it became a central part of the european wine culture, we know today.
On the rivers of Tiber close to an old freight port lies a mysterious hill behind busy roads and residential structures. This hill; Monte Testaccio is known to be a place for young couples, who travel up the hill for a romantic getaway. On the surface, the site resembles any other grassy hill, but when archaeologists started to excavate the site, a surprising amount of ancient pots started to appear. The mound was identified to be an enormous landfill for Roman clay amphorae, used for producing and storing wine. Larger pots were used to contain the grape must during the fermentation process, and the smaller ones for serving. Fermenting wine in amphorae was mainly a thing of the past, but modern winemakers are bringing back the tradition. Compared to large industrial steel tanks, the small amphorae create a different set of conditions for the wine during its fermentation. By allowing more oxidation and more contact area with the vessel, amphoric wines tend to be noticeably minerally with a clean fruit and oxidized honey notes. The mountain of amphorae is an indication to the vast amount of wine needed to satisfy the throats of the Roman people. Every citizen drank about a litre a day, adding up to a staggering 180 million litres every year. Even in this period, wineries were highly specialized factories supplying products to an extend worthy of the industrial age.
“Il vino é il latte dei vecchi”;Wine is the milk of the old. This Italian phrase describes wine as a liquid of life-giving essence. Wine is to adults, what milk is to children. It calms the body and soothes the mind. So much that some nutritionists of today, claim that wine has clear nutritional benefits. And yet, even though these benefits are debatable, wine still has a place near our hearts. For long, wine has been the centerpiece for social gatherings and meaningful debates. It is the catalyst of good conversations, and having a glass of wine is a great way of taking a break from our fast paced everyday lives. For an Italian it is almost a sacred ritual of the day. The wine tradition is carried into Italian culture, dating all the way back to 800 B.C. and is in a metaphorical sense in their blood and part of their DNA.
But what is the essence behind the liquid in the bottle? For some, wine is considered simple grape juice. For others, immersing yourself into the history and artistry of winemaking is art of the highest form. Every part of the process is appreciated and discussed. From the terroir – the soil, sun and winds accumulated within the grape, to the winemakers choices of ageing and storing. There is a certain attraction to knowing your way around wine. To know what you like and to acknowledge the hard work of a skilled craftsman. Sprezzatura is in many ways, to be sure of yourself, and to understand your choices. Just like the winemaker, the experienced enthusiast, assesses the winemenu like a map, leading to different places. He understands the complexities of vintages, grapes and terroirs like a tailor fits a suit. Everything plays together. In fashion, as well as the simple enjoyment of wine.
Wine is one of the simple virtues in life. Yet, the true spirit of sprezzatura is understanding how to enjoy these mundane pleasures. To get the most out of any expression, be it the way you dress or the wine you drink. However, one thing is certain. Always have a bottle on hand, in case of company.
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