Did you know Baja California has a wine industry? I didn’t. I was skeptical. Beer, yes. Tequila, yes. Wine? Not so sure. But I am always up for an adventure and headed two hours south of San Diego to visit the village of Valle de Guadalupe to check it out. This is a beautiful drive along the Pacific Ocean toward Ensenada before turning inland to Valle de Guadalupe and the 100+ wineries along the Ruta del Vino. This is rural Mexico. Think unmarked dirt roads, cows, kids riding in the bed of trucks, men sitting on their horses chatting outside the market, and 7,700 acres of vines with a mountain backdrop. Ruta del Vino sits at an elevation of 1000 feet and has a Mediterranean climate of hot dry summers with morning fog and sea breezes. French, Spanish and Italian grapes are grown here. There are no rules in the Valle; grapes are mixed and blends are unique. Museo de la Vid y el Vino explains the history of winemaking in the area and is worth a stop to learn more.
L.A. CETTO WINERY VALLE DE GUADALUPE, RUTA DEL VINO
L.A. Cetto is Mexico’s largest wine producer. This family-owned business owns 1600 acres of vineyard in the Valle, produces 10-12 million liters of wine per year, exports to 30 countries around the world, and produces 60% of all Mexican wine. Owner Don Angelo Cetto immigrated from Trento, Italy in 1924. He originally opened a distillery in Tijuana during prohibition in 1926. The company moved to Valle de Guadalupe in the 1950s and began producing more wine than spirits. An interesting piece of information… when Angelo deceased his son took over the company and named it L.A. Cetto. All his descendants have been named using the initials L.A. The company is now owned by the third generation. Quality is important at L.A. Cetto. Grapes are harvested in August and September by hand and scissors. Take a production tour, view the barrel room, and enjoy a tasting. I loved the fruity undertones of the Chenin Blanc.
PLANNING YOUR TIME ON THE VALLE DE GUADALUPE RUTA DEL VINO
Roads to the wineries are not paved and may be full of potholes. Many roads are not marked, but there are several billboards displaying a map of the area. You can download a paper map or the LaRuta App for assistance. Driving in Mexico is no problem but returning through San Ysidro without Sentry is 26 lanes of gridlock resulting in up to three hours of hell, so plan accordingly. Download the border wait time app for reference. Consider taking an organized tour or park your car in San Diego’s Old Town, take the trolley to the border, walk across and hire a taxi (around $25 one way) or UberValle (around $100 for the day). Important to know: you are only allowed to bring one liter of liquid back into the states.
Not only does Valle de Guadalupe produce 90% of Mexican vintages, but you will also find artisan cheese, craft breweries, olive oil, food trucks, fresh seafood, farm-to-table menus, Michelin starred chefs and boutique hotels with infinity pools. There are no crowds here. The area is casual, affordable, and trendy. It is easy to relax and lose track of time in the Valle. I will be back. Maybe in August for the Fiestas de la Vendimia harvest festival. There are many wineries to explore, amazing food to eat, boutique hotels to experience, and wine to bring home!