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The Fontana family of Barolo, whose winery sits in the heart of Italy’s peerless Piedmont region, know a thing or two about fine wine. For six generations, they’ve been producing utterly stunning traditional Barolo wines from the indigenous grapes of the local terroir – Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, and Barbera – blending and vinifying with a mastery that only time, experience, and genuine passion can provide.

Cascina Fontana today is led by Mario Fontana, whose knowledge of the local traditions and the finer details of his vineyards are second-to-none. That’s not to say that Mario is a winemaker stuck in the past, however. He’s been keen to modernise the Barolo wine scene without compromising quality or prestige, seeking out new sustainable farming methods, as well as ways of producing his bold, complex, and characterful reds which well and truly communicate the features of his land. By paying homage to the past, respecting his family’s passions and dedication, and looking optimistically to the future, Mario has overseen a series of remarkable vintages, gaining an army of fans along the way.

Barbera is indigenous to the north-west of Italy, where it often plays second fiddle to the more famous Nebbiolo. This is a shame, because the sheer juiciness of the grape variety is a real pleasure to drink, as this bottle ably demonstrates. A mix of red and black fruit here – rhubarb, red cherry and black plum, with a succulence born from the clean acidity and snappy lines of this wine. Great stuff.

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