On the hallowed Langhe turf in northern Italy, the grape Nebbiolo reigns supreme. Here, wineries and vineyards with a history dating back centuries are the norm. So it’s a little surprising to find such insane quality from a relative newcomer – Schiavenza is family owned, but was only established in 1956, by two brothers Vittorio and Ugo Alessandria. They are located in the Piedmont subregion of Serralunga d’Alba, in the southern part of the Barolo zone, home to the greatest Nebbiolo vines on earth.
Today, the estate is run by the second-generation Alessandria sisters, Enrica and Maura, and their husbands Luciano Pira and Walter Anselma. They farm just under 9 hectares of vines across a number of vineyards, and run a brilliant restaurant as well. In the vineyard, they do not use pesticides or herbicides. Everything is done by hand – slowly and gently. The wines are traditional in the best sense, filled with savour and grace, but with fresh fruit as well. They walk a fine line between ‘fruity’ and ‘savoury’, and manage to pull it off wonderfully.
This wine is aged both in barrel and in bottle for a couple of years before release, which leads to refined tannins and gentle but persistent acidity. It also means the wine has found its own balance, and is very much ready to drink. Plenty of cherry, earth, tar and eucalyptus flavours are apparent, with tingling acidity and some lingering tobacco and earth notes.
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